Victorian 14k 0.20 CT East-West Set Old Mine Cut Belcher Claw Prong Ring


Victorian 14k 0.20 CT East-West Set Old Mine Cut Belcher Claw Prong Ring

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  • Unique find! Only 1 available.

  • Shopping pre-owned is choosing sustainable luxury
  • One-of-a-kind item exclusively curated for you
  • Ships with full insurance + signature confirmation

General Information:

  • US Size: 6.00-6.25 and sizable post-purchase if so desired
  • Total Carat Weight: 0.20 ct 
  • Total Precious Metal Weight: 1.79 dwt
  • Precious Metal Material: 14k yellow gold
  • Dimensions: The featured belcher setting faces up 7.14 mm north to south by approximately 7.45 mm east to west. The pinched shoulders give the effect of a reverse-taper, and measure about 3.04 mm wide. The base of the shank measures a slightly narrower 2.60 mm wide.
  • Weight: 2.27 grams
  • Markings: The interior of the shank is stamped simply "585", indicating the ring's gold purity of 14k yellow gold.
  • Era: This style ring was particularly popular between the last quarter of the 19th century and the 1920s. With this in mind and given the mounting style, stamp and diamond faceting matrix, this ring is estimated to date to between the 1890s and the 1910s.
  • Buyer Notes: Please kindly keep in mind that the gold mounting proudly evidences over a century of loving wear, and boasts the scuffs of time expected of an antique jewel of its age. As always, we opt to leave these marks exactly as they are as badges of honor, but they may certainly be buffed and polished out by the next caretaker's jeweler post-purchase if so desired.


  • Center Stone Type: Diamond
  • Center Stone Count: One (1)
  • Center Stone Carat Weight: 0.20 ct by historic formula per the specific gravity of diamond and the dimensions of the stone
  • Center Stone Dimensions: Estimated  3.38 x 3.20 mm
  • Center Stone Shape: Old Mine Cut set east to west to emphasize the cushion-like shape of the diamond's faceting matrix
  • Center Stone Color: G-H, perhaps whiter
  • Center Stone Clarity: VS2

The Story:

An absolute classic of the last quarter of the victorian era, this style diamond ring is as timeless as it is wearable. The strong silhouette is is understated yet handsome, an eye-catching alternative to the classic solitaire setting. One can recognize belcher rings by examining the area where the prongs meet the band’s shoulders; true belchers are those in which the prongs are cut from the shank directly rather than externally and additively affixed to the shank. 

The Belcher technique, named after its creator Thomas Belcher, was one of the first of its kind designed to ‘lift’ the featured gemstone above the finger through the use of prongs in this manner, so that the stone hovers above the metal band in order to allow light to pass through and refract off of the facets. Belcher settings are, therefore, identified by their unique prong style, wherein the prongs are cut directly out of the band itself, and appear to swell forward from the band as it grips the stone. The result is often a relatively low profile effect, where the center stone appears to hover within the mount, showing just a peek of skin beneath and through the scalloped and scooped pattern of the setting.

Various versions of this style were very popular between the 1860s and the early 1900. Colloquially, such rings are often referred to as “buttercup” rings because of the prongs’ resemblance to the opening of a buttercup blossom. Conversely, Belcher set rings are often misidentified as "Gypsy" set rings, even though the the two setting styles are differentiated by their two separate fabrication methods, as Gypsy set rings are burnish set within the band so as to sit flush with the arc of the gold backdrop, or set flush with delicate bead prongs designed to give a starlike quality. 

This ring is a shining example of Victorian taste, and makes a striking touch within a stack of favorite bands or a statement ring worn solo. 

By placing an order, you accept and agree to uphold all of Revival Fine Jewelry's terms, conditions and policies.

General Information: All additional jewelry boxes, ring boxes, and other jewelry items pictured alongside a featured listing are considered props, are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless otherwise noted. Items do not come with physical documentation, appraisals, or certifications, unless explicitly stated in the item description and/or title. While jewelry is inspected upon procurement by the shop as well as prior to shipment, Revival Fine Jewelry cannot guarantee a warranty once items leave our inventory, given the delicate and individual nature of secondhand articles and the unaccountability of buyer handling post-purchase.

Shipping: All orders are carefully packed within a branded Revival Fine Jewelry gift box, secured with recycled materials when possible, and shipped within a discreet outer shipping parcel. All orders ship with tracking, insurance and signature confirmation. Shipping options are presented at checkout. Per law and inegrity, international orders are always marked as commodity imports and customers are responsible for any and all customs expenses, VAT taxes and import fees, as well as any clearance costs legally dictated by their respective destination countries. These expenses are not calculated into the pricing structure, and returns based on import costs will not be permitted.

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Regarding Brooches & Pins: Often significantly and curiously undervalued jewelry items, brooches, pins and stick pins are treasured pieces of history in this shop. Accordingly, their pricing is calculated analogous to other fine jewelry, including their symbolic meaning, rarity and historical prestige. Such pieces are typically converted to other forms of jewelry, and are therefore becoming increasingly rare in their original states. Aside from being perfectly wearable as sophisticated lapel ornaments, brooches and pins of all kinds are prime candidates for many kinds of fine jewelry conversions, including rings, earrings, pendants, and charms, if so desired by the consumer post-purchase. Revival Fine Jewelry does not perform conversion projects for customers.

Regarding Storage & Boxes: All specifications, including but not limited to the measurements, age, origins, and material compositions are supplied in good faith as professional estimations constructed using professional grade tools, years of learned and honed skills, educational resources and academic scholarship, and refined research methods. Regardless of our confidence in our descriptions and the photographs deemed viable extensions of these descriptions, we cannot guarantee the definitiveness, faultlessness, or exactitude beyond our knowledge and expertise. Kindly keep in mind that this and all items are sold as-is vintage, antique and estate secondhand wares, and consequently bear conditional wear in matter and operation commensurate with age and use.

More information on these, and more, topics may be found in the shop policies.

All layaway terms may be found here, and all shop policies may be found here.

Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.

In exchange for offering interest-free plans, customers agree to abide and uphold the following nonnegotiable terms and conditions:

  • A 30% deposit is due upfront to reserve the item for layaway and pull it from public sale on all of our shopping platforms. Shipping expenses are added to this first payment unless otherwise requested.
  • The remaining 70% balance is divided up into three subsequent monthly payments due on the same day of the following three months. If delinquent, a $20.00 USD late fee is added per day to an overdue payment until paid.
  • In the event that a layaway installment is left unpaid for seven (7) days and no communication is received from the designated customer, the layaway plan will be presumed abandoned. While the item will be returned to public sale, all payments made hitherto are still considered final.

Layaway items are promptly boxed and shipped to the designated customer once the final payment successfully processes. Taxes, import and other legal fees are not calculated into the payments, and are the sole responsibility of the customer, whether a domestic US or international buyer. Revival Fine Jewelry is not responsible for calculating, covering or adding such costs into purchase prices.

All layaway payments as well as all items purchased through layaway plans are considered final sale; neither payments nor items may be refunded, transferred, exchanged or returned. Revival Fine Jewelry does not issue store credit.

Revival Fine Jewelry reserves the right to cancel any layaway plan at any point for any reason if fraudulent activity is suspected. In this event, the designated customer will be notified prior to the intended cancellation of their plan.

Request a layaway plan via email here. Remember to specify your desired item by providing its link, title or SKU/code.