- Total Carat Weight: 0.849 ctw
- Precious Metal Weight: 2.43 dwt
- Precious Metal Material: 14k yellow gold throughout; some areas test higher karat content
- Dimensions: This pin measures 54.42 mm long x 15.24 mm wide x 7.80 mm deep excluding the stem/closure to the pin's reverse. On its own, the featured horseshoe component measures 15.24 mm north to south x 12.86 mm east to west x 3.45 mm deep excluding the stem.
- Weight: An exceptional 3.78 grams
- Markings: Unmarked, but tested
- Era: This pin is late Victorian, believed to date to between 1880 and 1890, and the closure appears to be a historic update added about 1900.
- Buyer Notes: Wonderfully collectible and boasting an expertly crafted assortment of quality gems, this brooch is rich in symbolism and style, a relic of both history and lore. Uniquely, the diamonds and rubies are each hand-faceted full cut stones, meaning they are neither single nor rose cuts, two faceting styles that have fewer facets and therefore less refraction and sparkle. Being that these alternating gems are all full old cuts, their brilliance is elevated and boosted, reminding the wearer of their handcrafted origins. Every aspect of this brooch is highly considered, every angle articulated and no detail spared. While the vast majority of horseshoe brooches like this have been converted into pendants and rings, this piece retains its original setting and design, a remarkable and deeply desirable rarity on the market today.
- Center Stone Type: Diamond
- Center Stone Count: Eight (8)
- Center Stone Dimensions and Carat Weights:
- 1.85 x 1.90 mm = 0.038 ct
- 1.90 x 1.95 mm = 0.042 ct
- 2.00 x 2.10 mm = 0.051 ct
- 2.30 x 2.35 mm = 0.062 ct
- 2.40 x 2.20 mm = 0.061 ct
- 2.15 x 2.20 mm = 0.051 ct
- 2.20 x 2.20 mm = 0.052 ct
- 1.95 x 1.95 mm = 0.038 ct
- Center Stone Shape: Seven stones are Old European Cut; one stone is a Transitional Cut (classified by the GIA as a Circular Brilliant Cut) dating to circa 1930-1935, which indicates that it is a historic replacement.
- Center Stone Color: F-G, superbly bright white
- Center Stone Clarity: VS2; one stone may be SI1
- Side Stone Type: Ruby
- Side Stone Count: Seven (7)
- Side Stone Dimensions and Carat Weights:
- 1.90 x 1.95 mm = 0.045 ct
- 2.30 x 2.30 mm = 0.072 ct
- 2.25 x 2.35 mm = 0.073 ct
- 2.45 x 2.60 mm = 0.092 ct
- 2.30 x 2.40 mm = 0.069 ct
- 2.20 x 2.20 mm = 0.056 ct
- 2.25 x 1.95 mm = 0.047 ct
- Side Stone Shape: Round Faceted Cut
- Side Stone Color: Vivid purple-pink
- Side Stone Clarity: Translucent to semi-translucent
A beautifully articulated treasure endowed with craftsmanship and narrative, this equestrian themed brooch hails from the end of the 19th century. This featured horseshoe houses an impressive selection of alternating old cut diamonds and rubies, each one set within a continuous crown-prong mounting. This perfectly webbed mounting adds emphasis to the horseshoe form, and decorate the jewel from every angle.
The collection of eight old cut diamonds dotting the brooch are utterly brilliant and bright white, a dazzling backdrop for the seven complementary purplish-pink rubies that further punctuate the brooch. This most desirable pairing of gems is lively and striking, with an air of femininity that looks ahead to the Edwardian, pre-war years.
The Victorians are heralded for their deep and wide-ranging symbolic associations evoked through jewelry. Every element, gemstone, design choice and motif carried with it a wealth of symbolism, and this brooch offers no exception.
The horseshoe motif has long been popular as a symbol of both fortune and protection, two themes that have influenced jewelry for thousands of years. During the Victorian period, novelty and sporting jewelry grew to popularity as early as the first quarter of the 19th century, and by the 1870s, they were a dominant favorite by ladies and gentleman consumers alike. Horseshoes were meant to allude to the support of equestrian sports just as much as they conveyed good fortune, leaning most often toward the latter as the Victorian era drew to a close.
It is believed that the horseshoe can both gather and bestow luck; when worn ‘U’-shape up, the talisman catches good fortune for its wearer, and when worn ‘U’-shape down, it is thought to bless others with luck and protection, both friends and strangers alike. The emblem is not relevant solely to equestrians, as its illustrative meaning benefits all with favor and good will. Horseshoe jewelry was typically gifted as a celebratory gesture, intended as a blessing over the recipient.
In clever conjunction with the horseshoe, this brooch's principal horizontal bar is crafted to resemble a braided leather hunting whip, specifically a kind used in fox hunting. Though somewhat controversial today, the ritual of the fox hunt has important roots in European (especially British) rural culture, with origins beginning in the early 1530s. It began as a method of fox population control and healthy deer population balance, and quickly developed into a social attraction throughout the 17th and 18th centuries. The oldest hunt in England is the Bilsdale Hunt in Yorkshire, which was first hosted by George Villiers, the Duke of Buckingham back in 1668. With Industrial Revolution in the mid to late 18th century, fox hunting's popularity as a top-tier invitational and imbibing event spread throughout Europe.
Between 2002 and 2005, laws against hunting foxes and hunting with dogs passed across the United Kingdom, though the socio-cultural entertainment value of "the chase" still captivates popular culture, jewelry collectors and history lovers alike. The whip emblem recalls the the role of the "Whipper-In", assistant to the primary Huntsman, whose responsibility it is to keep the hounds engaged as a unified pack. In this brooch, the whip symbolizes leadership, the burden of authority and guidance, and acts as something of a badge to honor the power of such a role.
Further enhancing the brooch's meaning, the gems that encrust this pin also bear symbolic value. Diamonds represent robust courage of the heart, the sanctity of fortitude found in love, and the earnestness of affection. In suit, rubies are perceived as royal gems, and are thought to symbolize deep passion, nobility and dignity, as well as the spilled blood of Christ in graceful atonement for flawed mankind. Together, these gems tell a story of unity, strength and the promise of undeserved favor, while the horseshoe embodies fortune and the whip evokes the prestige of ascendancy.
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General Information: All additional jewelry boxes, ring boxes, and other jewelry items pictured alongside a featured listing are considered props, are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless otherwise noted. Items do not come with physical documentation, appraisals, or certifications, unless explicitly stated in the item description and/or title. While jewelry is inspected upon procurement by the shop as well as prior to shipment, Revival Fine Jewelry cannot guarantee a warranty once items leave our inventory, given the delicate and individual nature of secondhand articles and the unaccountability of buyer handling post-purchase.
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Regarding Brooches & Pins: Often significantly and curiously undervalued jewelry items, brooches, pins and stick pins are treasured pieces of history in this shop. Accordingly, their pricing is calculated analogous to other fine jewelry, including their symbolic meaning, rarity and historical prestige. Such pieces are typically converted to other forms of jewelry, and are therefore becoming increasingly rare in their original states. Aside from being perfectly wearable as sophisticated lapel ornaments, brooches and pins of all kinds are prime candidates for many kinds of fine jewelry conversions, including rings, earrings, pendants, and charms, if so desired by the consumer post-purchase. Revival Fine Jewelry does not perform conversion projects for customers.
Regarding Storage & Boxes: All specifications, including but not limited to the measurements, age, origins, and material compositions are supplied in good faith as professional estimations constructed using professional grade tools, years of learned and honed skills, educational resources and academic scholarship, and refined research methods. Regardless of our confidence in our descriptions and the photographs deemed viable extensions of these descriptions, we cannot guarantee the definitiveness, faultlessness, or exactitude beyond our knowledge and expertise. Kindly keep in mind that this and all items are sold as-is vintage, antique and estate secondhand wares, and consequently bear conditional wear in matter and operation commensurate with age and use.
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All layaway terms may be found here, and all shop policies may be found here.
Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.
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