General Information:
- US Size: 7.25
- Total Carat Weight: Professionally estimated by formula to be approximately 0.595 ctw; because of how rose cuts are shaped and faceted, they have the visual appearance of twice that, at about 1.19 ctw. Because the diamonds are foiled, their colors and clarities are estimated to be H-I/SI.
- Total Precious Metal Weight: 2.31 ozt/dwt
- Metal Material: shop equipment tests this ring as 14-16k yellow gold with silver skull components
- Dimensions: ring face is 9.35 mm north to south x 26.51 mm east to west from skull to skull; central diamond rises ~6 mm from the finger/band and the skulls rise ~6.4 mm from the finger/band
- Weight: 3.60 grams
- Markings: Largely unmarked, which is typical for a ring of this age. A rather curious mark is on the band’s exterior and is shaped as a stylized boar head stamp, somewhat reminiscent of the French silver boar’s head mark used from 1838 through 1961, marking small items of at least 800 purity. However, the stamp on this ring is a much more simplified version, with a closed mouth and upright ears; it is not an exact match. While Revival Fine Jewelry takes pride in the immense research performed for every item, there are always pieces that cannot seem to be fully ascertained-- this is one of those pieces. As well, because the ring is a marriage of various historic components, it could be that this mark is not authentic or specific, but added instead for intrigue. This is not certain, and it could be that this mark denotes a location and age that is still unknown to our expertise.
- Era: As described in full within the written description, this piece is an amalgamation of multiple antique components, the diamond trio being one component, the split shank band another, and the pair of skulls yet another. On the other hand, it could be that this piece began life as a diamond trilogy ring dating to around 1860-1890 and the skulls believed to have been added sometime in the 20th century. However, beyond what our years of collecting, dealing, learning and refining our expertise enable us to determine, we cannot ascertain a more precise date range or history than this without knowledge of the ring’s exact provenance. It is a bit of a mystery, though very cool and very captivating, nonetheless. This ring is believed to have originated in Eastern Europe.
- Buyer Notes: This ring is an insanely rare find, and while it is a collector’s dream, it is not necessarily ideal for everyday wear. As mentioned, its foiled and closed back settings mean that this ring should be kept away from water so that the foiling does not deteriorate and discolor. Buyers should keep this in mind, and also note the presence of both time-earned patina and excess solder, the former is considered extremely valuable by collectors and the latter is to be expected of married components. Both have been left so that the ring exists exactly how we procured it.
Specifications:
- Center Stone Type: Diamond
- Center Stone Count: One (1)
- Center Stone Carat Weight: Professionally estimated to be ~0.285 ct with the visual appearance of 0.57 ct
- Center Stone Dimensions: About 4.74 x 4.69 x 2.70 mm (Measured within bezeled pinched collet setting so as to preserve the ring’s integrity)
- Center Stone Shape: Antique Rose Cut
- Side Stone Type: Diamond
- Side Stone Count: Two (2)
- Side Stone Carat Weight: Professionally estimated (correlating to the dimensions below) to be ~0.145 ct (with the visual appearance of 0.29 ct) and ~0.165 ct (with the visual appearance of 0.33 ct)
- Side Stone Dimensions: One diamond is about 3.57 x 3.84 x 2.25 mm and the other is about 3.98 x 3.53 x 2.49 mm (Measured within bezeled pinched collet settings so as to preserve the ring’s integrity)
- Side Stone Shape: Antique Rose Cut
The Story:
An incredible marriage of antique components, this totally bespoke diamond ring is something of a variation of a “half hoop”, indicating that half of the hoop bears features primary gemstones and detailing. The face of the ring is an east-west orientation, spanning across the finger boldly. When worn, the ring is finger-hugging, a smooth fit and surprisingly very comfortable. It exhibits a trilogy style, in which a main, central diamond is flanked on both sides by a pair of additional diamonds. All three are rose cut diamonds, full of character and uniqueness given that they were each cut by hand, faceted and polished by an artisan sometime during the 19th century, likely around 1860-1870. These rose cuts are wholly individual, and being that they were not cut by machines, there are quite literally none exactly like them in existence.
The main diamond is of all diamonds that adorn this piece. These three main diamonds give the appearance of about 1.20 total carats, though their rose faceting (and the flat bases that rose cuts bear) actually places their weight at about 0.60 ctw or so. It is important to note that these diamonds are closed backed, meaning that no light passes into and through them to refract. Instead, these diamonds are all foiled on their reverse. Both Rose Cuts and foiling were techniques cleverly designed to catch the twinkle of candlelight, as both the broad geometric facets of rose cuts as well as their foiling catch the light and bounce within the stones. The metallic nature of both characteristics ethereally shoot light across and out of the diamonds, visually saturating the pieces with a spectrum of ever so slightly more subdued, moody earth tones.
The trio of diamonds are mounted within beautifully soaring buttercup style mounts, each one with striking claw prongs that have been situated around the diamonds in such a way as to give the impression of pinched collets, a construction type that dates over a hundred years prior to this ring. While not believed to be true collets, the effect of the foiled bezels and the buttercup claw prongs is the same: a secure setting fabrication. Equally dramatic, the twin skulls are soldered to face inwards, displaying their eerily lacking mandibles when viewed in profile. No detail is spared, as the silver skulls show the zigzagging suture lines at their rear-base.
Prospective buyers ought to be mindful that this piece appears to be an amalgamation of antique components, married together to form the jewel we see today: The foiled rose cuts in the buttercup settings likely date to 1860-1870. The skulls are believed to date to sometime during the 20th century, and the very warm gold split shank ring is likely an early 20th century relic. These pieces have been creatively assembled as an imaginative and wild twist to the romance and severity of “Memento Mori” jewelry. While the ring’s elements may not have begun life together, their present state is an edgy homage to whatever they were prior to the ring’s construction.
It should be noted that this diamonds’ foiling renders the ring incompatible with water and should-- like all foiled gems-- not get wet. This, along with any commensurate wear are characteristics that prospective buyers need to keep in mind when considering an investment into a ring of such age and make. This piece is an incredibly eye-catching statement piece, and is an ideal addition to any historic jewelry collection. It feels otherworldly and powerful, a bewitching echo of stories untold. Its peculiar complexion dazzles as truly extraordinary amongst antique 19th to 20th century adornments.
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General Information: All additional jewelry boxes, ring boxes, and other jewelry items pictured alongside a featured listing are considered props, are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless otherwise noted. Items do not come with physical documentation, appraisals, or certifications, unless explicitly stated in the item description and/or title. While jewelry is inspected upon procurement by the shop as well as prior to shipment, Revival Fine Jewelry cannot guarantee a warranty once items leave our inventory, given the delicate and individual nature of secondhand articles and the unaccountability of buyer handling post-purchase.
Shipping: All orders are carefully packed within a branded Revival Fine Jewelry gift box, secured with recycled materials when possible, and shipped within a discreet outer shipping parcel. All orders ship with tracking, insurance and signature confirmation. Shipping options are presented at checkout. Per law and inegrity, international orders are always marked as commodity imports and customers are responsible for any and all customs expenses, VAT taxes and import fees, as well as any clearance costs legally dictated by their respective destination countries. These expenses are not calculated into the pricing structure, and returns based on import costs will not be permitted.
Returns: While Revival Fine Jewelry aims to provide a smooth experience from start to finish, customers are encouraged to reach out regarding any issue or dissatisfaction, so that we may work together toward a resolution. If a return is desired, the shop must be notified of an intention to return within 3 days of confirmed delivery, and item(s) must be shipped back to the shop within 7 days of confirmed delivery. All materials (gift box, inserts, cards) must be returned with the item(s). Returns declared after the 3 day window and/or postmarked after 7 days of receipt will neither be accepted nor refunded. Customers are responsible for generating an insured return shipping label (international customers included) and relaying the tracking information to Revival Fine Jewelry. Returns that do not include full insurance and/or tracking, and are damaged or lost in transit, will not be refunded. If a return is accepted, customers will be refunded less the original cost of shipping, handling and insurance, the expense of any damages incurred, and a 10% restocking fee (of the original purchase price). All sale items, items altered or resized by the buyer post-purchase, and all storage/ boxes are considered final sale and are ineligible for a return or refund.
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Pricing: Revival Fine Jewelry reserves the right to decrease, increase, alter and modify inventory pricing to meet market rarity, demand or value; to offset platform, transaction or seller's fees; to adapt to economic inflation and fluctuation; and to defray specific business expenses. Pricing is the sole discretion of every small business.
Regarding Brooches & Pins: Often significantly and curiously undervalued jewelry items, brooches, pins and stick pins are treasured pieces of history in this shop. Accordingly, their pricing is calculated analogous to other fine jewelry, including their symbolic meaning, rarity and historical prestige. Such pieces are typically converted to other forms of jewelry, and are therefore becoming increasingly rare in their original states. Aside from being perfectly wearable as sophisticated lapel ornaments, brooches and pins of all kinds are prime candidates for many kinds of fine jewelry conversions, including rings, earrings, pendants, and charms, if so desired by the consumer post-purchase. Revival Fine Jewelry does not perform conversion projects for customers.
Regarding Storage & Boxes: All specifications, including but not limited to the measurements, age, origins, and material compositions are supplied in good faith as professional estimations constructed using professional grade tools, years of learned and honed skills, educational resources and academic scholarship, and refined research methods. Regardless of our confidence in our descriptions and the photographs deemed viable extensions of these descriptions, we cannot guarantee the definitiveness, faultlessness, or exactitude beyond our knowledge and expertise. Kindly keep in mind that this and all items are sold as-is vintage, antique and estate secondhand wares, and consequently bear conditional wear in matter and operation commensurate with age and use.
More information on these, and more, topics may be found in the shop policies.
All layaway terms may be found here, and all shop policies may be found here.
Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.
In exchange for offering interest-free plans, customers agree to abide and uphold the following nonnegotiable terms and conditions:
- A 30% deposit is due upfront to reserve the item for layaway and pull it from public sale on all of our shopping platforms. Shipping expenses are added to this first payment unless otherwise requested.
- The remaining 70% balance is divided up into three subsequent monthly payments due on the same day of the following three months. If delinquent, a $20.00 USD late fee is added per day to an overdue payment until paid.
- In the event that a layaway installment is left unpaid for seven (7) days and no communication is received from the designated customer, the layaway plan will be presumed abandoned. While the item will be returned to public sale, all payments made hitherto are still considered final.
Layaway items are promptly boxed and shipped to the designated customer once the final payment successfully processes. Taxes, import and other legal fees are not calculated into the payments, and are the sole responsibility of the customer, whether a domestic US or international buyer. Revival Fine Jewelry is not responsible for calculating, covering or adding such costs into purchase prices.
All layaway payments as well as all items purchased through layaway plans are considered final sale; neither payments nor items may be refunded, transferred, exchanged or returned. Revival Fine Jewelry does not issue store credit.
Revival Fine Jewelry reserves the right to cancel any layaway plan at any point for any reason if fraudulent activity is suspected. In this event, the designated customer will be notified prior to the intended cancellation of their plan.
Request a layaway plan via email here. Remember to specify your desired item by providing its link, title or SKU/code.