Edwardian 14k Rose Gold 1.01 CTW Opal Three Stone Claw Prong Ring with G/VS Old Cut Diamond Halo

General Information:

• US Size: Between a 5.50 and 5.75, leaning more toward the latter
• Total Carat Weight: Estimated assessment of 1.01 ctw, inclusive of all stones present
• Precious Metal Weight: 1.54 dwt
• Precious Metal Material: 14k rosy gold with a rich, time-earned patina
• Dimensions: 8.68 mm north to south ring face x 15.38 mm east to west ring face; ~3.85 mm rise from the finger (depth) at the highest point on the ring face (top of central opal cabochon); shoulders taper from ~3.20 mm width just after the prong face to 1.33 mm at the base of the shank.
• Weight: 2.40 grams
• Markings: Unmarked but tests for 14k
• Era: Given the setting style, shoulder details, the construction techniques of the mounting, and the stone faceting and proportions, we estimate that the ring dates to between1900 to the 1910s. However, without knowing an exact provenance, we cannot ascertain a more precise date range beyond what our years of collecting, dealing, learning and refining our expertise enables us to determine.
• Buyer Notes: This ring is a wonderful example of Edwardian jewelry, showcasing an impressive display of elegance in the form of the timeless pairing of opals and diamonds. The setting is antique rosy gold, with a deep patina especially around the claw prong mountings, which is considered highly desirable by collectors. The diamonds are subtle twinklers, with delicate flashes in bright sunlight and primarily milky blue body color in standard indoor lighting. The high grade diamonds exhibit an array of antique faceting styles, and give the ring narrative as well as sparkle. Even so, the stones all show evidence of their approximate 120 year age, with some nibbling and flea bites here and there on girdles, and some nicks can be perceived through a jeweler’s loupe, as pictured. Given that opals are extremely fragile gemstones in general, these show some surface abrasions (also pictured), some bites below the prongs, and one side opal has a nick present on its surface. These character-rich imperfections are commensurate with its age and affectionate use and are absolutely expected of a jewel like this. Gladly however, these traits are not at all readily visible to the naked eye, and do not detract from the ring’s elegance whatsoever.

Specifications:

• Center Stone Type: Opal
• Center Stone Count: Three (3)
• Center Stone Dimensions: measured within mount so as to preserve integrity, approximately 3.26 x 3.31 x 2.00 mm; 3.78 x 4.22 x 2.10 mm; 3.62 x 3.44 x 2.02 mm
• Center Stone Carat Weight: by formula per the specific gravity of opal, 0.122 ct; 0.19 ct; 0.14 ct; together totaling 0.45 ctw
• Center Stone Shape: Round Cabochon

• Side Stone Type: Diamond
• Side Stone Count: Sixteen (16)
• Side Stone Dimensions: 0.56 ctw, breakdown per stone below
  • 1. 1.95 x 2.15 x 1.58 = 0.045 ct
  • 2. 1.78 x 1.60 x 1.46 = 0.030 ct
  • 3. 1.83 x 1.94 x 1.70 = 0.044 ct
  • 4. 1.88 x 1.94 x 1.61 = 0.042 ct
  • 5. 1.85 x 1.91 x 1.48 = 0.036 ct
  • 6. 1.73 x 1.84 x 1.52 = 0.035 ct
  • 7. 1.79 x 1.98 x 1.49 = 0.036 ct
  • 8. 1.61 x 1.85 x 1.43 = 0.034 ct
  • 9. 2.08 x 2.19 x 1.89 = 0.030 ct
  • 10. 1.90 x 1.95 x 1.49 = 0.063 ct
  • 11. 1.76 x 1.84 x 1.49 = 0.038 ct
  • 12. 1.80 x 1.75 x 1.33 = 0.028 ct
  • 13. 1.51 x 1.59 x 1.32 = 0.023 ct
  • 14. 1.42 x 1.47 x 1.45 = 0.024 ct
  • 15. 1.51 x 1.74 x 1.30 = 0.024 ct
  • 16. 1.47 x 1.72 x 1.41 = 0.026 ct
• Side Stone Shape: Old Mine cut, Old European cut, and Transitional cut
• Side Stone Color: G-H
• Side Stone Clarity: VS2

The Story:

A true turn of the century beauty, this opal dinner ring features the ever-popular trilogy design with an old cut diamond halo fringing the main gemstones. This light opal and colorless diamond combination was much beloved by Edwardian ladies, as it exudes both romanticism and effeminate charm in an almost floral-like setting. The stones are all set with shared claw prongs, which are a hallmark of late Victorian to early Edwardian age jewelry, clutching the gems tenderly and adding a lacy element to the piece.

The central opals are primarily a milky, pale blue body color with flashes of vibrant green, chartreuse yellow and vivid electric blues, and a seemingly inner glow of warm apricot orange. Yet, as is true of all opals, these stones enliven as the lighting dims, and their color play intensifies and saturates in lower light. Opals are notoriously difficult to photograph, given their iridescence and chameleonic nature; opals appear to “shape-shift” their celestial makeup and coloration depending on the environmental and lighting conditions, causing their look to vary according to the setting.
As such, this ring has been photographed in various lights, at various times of day, and to varying degrees of exposure so as to best encapsulate their dynamic character. Please be advised that the very light white-blue color is how they most frequently appear in indoor light, while the direct sunlight is known to draw out the siliceous ebullience of their internal colors.

In complementary harmony to the opals’ elegance, a total of approximately 0.56 carats of mixed antique cut diamonds frame the center stones. Some of the diamonds present are Old Mine cuts (classified by the GIA as ‘Old Mine Brilliant’) dating to the mid to late 19th century, some are Old European cuts dating to between the late 19th century and early 20th, and some are Transitional cuts (classified by the GIA as ‘Circular Brilliant’ cuts) dating to about the late 1920s to 1930s. While the ring itself hails from 1900-1910s, the multiple faceting styles of the diamonds tell us that some accent stones may be replacements for earlier originals that have been lost to time. Though their cutting styles range, they share certain charms that are so deeply beloved of antique cuts, including the chunky facets, the uneven silhouettes, the open culets, and the evidence of hand-cutting techniques. All the diamonds boast insane color and clarity that is quite notable, and enhance the value of the piece, while also causing this chic low-profile ring to absolutely burst into sparkles.

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