Art Deco 18k 0.75 CTW Champagne Salt and Pepper Diamond and Sapphire Filigree Engagement Ring

General Information:

• US Size: Right between a 6.00 and 6.25
• Total Carat Weight: Estimated assessment of 0.75 ctw
  
• Total Precious Metal Weight: 1.63 dwt
• Precious Metal Material: 18k bright white, ultra polished gold
• Dimensions: 9.35 mm north to south prong mount face; 6.10 mm rise from the finger (depth) at the highest point on the ring face (table of diamond) and 4.85 mm shoulder rise/depth at the sapphire tables; shoulders taper from ~5.60 mm width at the outermost endpoint of the sapphires to 0.85 mm at the base of the shank.
• Weight: 2.54 grams
• Markings: 18K
  
• Era: Given the setting style, shoulder details, the construction techniques of the mounting, and the stone faceting and proportions, we estimate that the ring dates to between the very late 1910s to the earliest 1920s. Even so, this aesthetic hung onto trends through the mid to late 1930s at the end of the Art Deco period, and as such, it is possible that it dates the end of that decade. Without knowing an exact provenance, we cannot ascertain a more precise date range beyond what our years of collecting, dealing, learning and refining our expertise enables us to determine.
• Buyer Notes: This ring is an astounding example of period engagement design, and unlike the loads of Deco era pieces on the market, the featured diamond is full of defining traits that set it apart from other stones: its color is dramatic and different, a bold alternative to the standard colorless diamond. Champagne diamonds are notoriously difficult to photograph, as their color shifts and alters in coordination and response to the lighting conditions and time of day; sometimes the diamond appears pale golden-honey, other times it appears richly cognac, while still others it seems shockingly faint to warmly toned. This stone is what we all love about old cuts, displaying a broad, chunky faceting matrix reminiscent of a flower, as well as a wide open culet at its center, acting as an additional facet through which light playfully bounces. It is of natural origins, and as such, proudly showcases its organic growth in the form of carbon inclusions that dot its interior like its own galaxy. In interesting contrast, the side sapphires are created, a stunning ode to the latest technology of the day. This deep blue pair shows signs commensurate with approximately a century of wear, as one sapphire is nibbled at a bezeled corner, while the other shows harsher chipping to one of its corners. These are pictured and should be noted by prospective buyers, though are surprisingly unnoticeable to the eye when worn. Yet, the high karat 18k filigree work that makes up the mounting maintains its crispness and shine, embodying life and love in every detail. 

Specifications:

• Center Stone Type: Diamond
• Center Stone Count: One (1)
• Center Stone Dimensions: measured within mount so as to preserve integrity, 5.51 x 5.47 x 3.31 mm
• Center Stone Carat Weight: by formula, 0.61 ct
• Center Stone Shape: Old European Cut with open culet
• Center Stone Color: Champagne to very light brown
• Center Stone Clarity: I1 (due to carbon specks as photographed, which are not as readily visible because of the setting type and rich diamond coloration; the diamond’s “body” clarity is very nice as shown, causing the diamond to be remarkably sparkly even with character-rich freckling)

• Side Stone Type: Antique Created Sapphire
• Side Stone Count: Two (2)
• Side Stone Dimensions: measured within mount so as to preserve integrity, 3.30 x 3.30 x 1.15 mm each
• Side Stone Carat Weight: 0.070 ct ea.; 0.14 ctw ( by formula using the specific gravity of sapphire (created and natural mined sapphire share an identical chemical structure)
• Side Stone Shape: Triangular faceted cut
• Side Stone Color: Velvety dark, very deep navy blue

The Story:

Fabricated in sultry 18k white gold, this early Art Deco era ring features a bright, colorful champagne Old European diamond. This central diamond is very light brownish, appearing slightly honey to warm golden in bright lights, and pale cognac in others. Its unique coloration makes it dazzle with jewel tone refractions in varying light conditions, with deep color play that offers understated chromatic richness to the stone. Though this diamond is classified as an I2 clarity champagne stone, it is remarkably sparkly. Indeed, its clarity grading is due to the presence of carbon specks and inclusions within the diamond, but these velvety black carbons act as a miniature galaxy inside the diamond, giving it an abundance of character. These unique characteristics are Mother Nature’s fingerprint, reminding the wearer that this diamond is solely and wholly one of a kind amongst all diamonds in existence.

The central champagne diamond is flanked on either side by bezel-set equilateral triangular faceted created sapphire gemstones. These sapphires embody the outstanding feats of engineering of the early Deco period, as the innovation of created sapphires was established around 1909. Such stones are chemically identical to their natural counterparts, simply grown under the watchful eye of a scientist. As such, these so-called ‘lab’ sapphires were extremely expensive, considered a luxury good, and highly desirable within jewelry. The sapphire gemstones in this ring show a rich, dark navy blue tonality, and catch the light just as beautifully as the featured diamond.

The ornate metalwork that comprises the ring elevates the elegance of gemstones: a series of four five-petaled floral forms decorate the north and south profiles of the ring’s gallery, two of which are solid gold masses hugging the outermost shoulders, while another pair are but silhouettes that float more principally and neighbor a central bow motif. This bow is made to appear like a tied ribbon, whimsical and cheerful, constituting the filigree body of the ring. In harmony with the delicacy of this feminine filigree, the daintiest milgrain borders the detailing and stone settings throughout. A dimensional, zigzagging line travels down the tapered shoulders, which come to a very fine width at the base of the shank.

As is true of all antique jewels, this ring has ample symbolism woven into every element: the five-petaled flowers are stylized Forget-Me-Not blossoms, which are delightful periwinkle colored flowers that bloom in spring and early summer, and have been used within historic jewelry for hundreds of years as a love letter of sorts. Forget-Me-Nots have long been exchanged between lovers separated by distance and unavoidable circumstances, gifted in humble reassurance of fidelity and respect. The fact that there are four of these flowers present within the filigree means that such loving commitment is year round and “rain or shine”. In tandem, the billowing bows on the gallery give visual form to the beautiful security and steadfastness of bound affection. Last, the meandering pattern down the shoulders recalls the ebbs and flows of life which are able to be met with courage when anchored by love.

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