- Total Carat Weight: 0.48 ctw
- Precious Metal Weight: 3.52 dwt
- Precious Metal Material: 14k buttery, patinaed yellow gold
- Dimensions: This brooch measures 47.40 mm long x 14.36 mm wide x 10.79 mm deep including the stem to the pin's reverse.
- Weight: A wonderfully hefty 5.48 grams
- Markings: Unmarked
- Era: This brooch is believed to date to the mid Victorian period, around the last quarter of the 19th century, circa 1875.
- Buyer Notes: This piece represents a resurgence in popularity in diamond, pearl and bright enamelwork jewelry during the end of the 1800s, yet its precise make, scale, design, quality, craftsmanship and construction make it a surprisingly rare find today. The central circular component, whereon the diamond and vivid blue and white enameling is found, can actually be popped off to reveal a secret locket. This locket is very sizable indeed, and is large enough to hold many a keepsake (seeds or flower bud, lock of hair or baby teeth, small stones or fragments of cloth and ribbon, etc.). Please kindly note that the blue surface does show an arched area of enamel discoloration BENEATH the surface, which causes the gold/metal substrate to peer through so as to give an illusionary 'greener-gold' hue. Please examine the photos closely and use the arrow overlay to guide your assessment of this quality. This kind of enameling fluke likely occurred either in the making of the brooch OR occurred sometime in its long life of being affectionately worn. If the latter, then it was resealed with a clear enamel topcoat at some point in its history so as to prevent any further wear. Despite the area's presence, this brooch maintains its striking beauty and is certainly no less beautiful. Keep in mind that this wear is NOT readily perceptible to the eye when worn, but is noted for buyer transparency.
- Prospective Buyers: Research shows that this Victorian brooch has a comparative market value of at least $1,740. This is not a formal, written appraisal but may be helpful for prospective buyers while considering the purchase of this rarity.
- Center Stone Type: Diamond
- Center Stone Count: One (1)
- Center Stone Dimensions: Estimated 2.73 x 2.71 x 1.55 mm, as measured within the mounting as the stone setting permits.
- Center Stone Carat Weight: 0.134 ct by formula per the specific gravity of diamond and using the unique dimensions below (including the ~0.55 mm table diameter which is unusually small for diamonds of this size, and denotes the stone's impressive height-- which accounts for the diamond's added carat weight); this diamond has the visual spread of a MODERN 0.08 ct diamond, exhibiting how antique cuts almost always boast chunkier carat weight per size.
- Center Stone Shape: Old Mine to Peruzzi Cut (note how fantastically tall the crown of this cut is in profile!)
- Center Stone Color: H-I
- Center Stone Clarity: VS2-SI1 and foil-backed
- Center Stone Notes: Please read "The Story" below for more information on the history and care of foil backed gemstones.
- Side Stone Type: Cultured Pearl
- Side Stone Count: Two (2)
- Side Stone Dimensions: One pearl measures about 2.89 x 3.00 x 2.76 mm, and the other measures 2.91 x 3.08 x 2.52 mm
- Side Stone Carat Weight: 0.35 ctw; 0.18 ct and 0.17 ct, per the specific gravity of pearl and respective to the above dimensions
- Side Stone Shape: Off-Round (whole spheres showing organic semi-baroque form)
- Side Stone Color: White with warm-silvery orient
- Side Stone Clarity: Opaque with very good luster
A very special little jewel, this Victorian brooch is delightfully bright in color and elegant in design. The front features a twinkling hand cut diamond center stone, mounted within a pinched collet bezeled setting. This old gem dots a circular surface of semi-translucent, vivid teal blue enameling that highlights hand-gouged etchwork beneath. The handcrafted design is a precursor to the engine-turned guilloché of the turn of the 19th to 20th century. Prior to machine-turned designs, all such detailing was painstakingly completed by the hand of a skilled metalworker. The translucence of the enamel allows light to bounce in and out and iridesce atop the gold metal beneath, giving the color a distinctly vivid and metallic effect. Under significant magnification, both the subtle imperfections of the geometric linework and the tiniest seed bubbles of trapped air in the blue enamel are perceptible, two characteristics offering a most charming reminder of the design's handcrafted origins.
The use of either blue Bristol glass or deep, cobalt blue enameling was designed to be a beguiling allusion to the depth and mystery of the heavens. Rings (and sometimes brooches) of this nature-- which were often embellished with diamond “stars”-- were known as “Bagues au Firmament”, translating from French to mean “Rings of the Heavens”. They were most popularized by Marie Antoinette in the 1780s as breakthroughs in astronomy illuminated the 18th century era, and influenced science, art, faith and fashion. Because the blue of this pin is brighter than cobalt, it may represent the daytime sky rather than the night sky, the white enamel perimeter reminiscent of encircling clouds.
The teal, sky blue enameling is further offset by a perimeter of solid, opaque white enamel that is punctuated by a geometrically-dotted pattern so as to recall the visual impact of milgraining. Historically, many Georgian and early Victorian blue and white enamel locket pieces were made as mourning jewelry to commemorate deceased loved ones, and it is the presence of the white band that is a somber clue of the jewel's possible purpose: white enameling specifically indicated that the deceased was either an infant, small child, or an unmarried youth. As such, it could be that this brooch may have been a custom-made jewel for a parent, relative, friend or loved one of the departed, inspired by celestial jewelry and reimagined to memorialize young life or love: the vibrancy of the blue suggests a the liveliness of youth inspiriting the sky, a reminder that the lost are ever present, while the pearls represent tears of love, which in holy affection, forever bind the departed with the living.
However, it is absolutely worth noting that this brooch may not have necessarily been designed as a piece of mourning after all, given that it feels decidedly more cheerful, more jubilant and almost effervescent in essence. Perhaps it was a sentimental gift exchanged between young lovers, wherein the white still indicated youthfulness, while the particular hue of blue chosen was meant to harken to the color of Forget-Me-Not flowers, which were emblems of fidelity and favor even during times of separation. Arguably the most desirable feature of this brooch is the central enameled portion's ability to be carefully taken out (much like a miniature box top) to reveal a hidden locket compartment. The lip of the top can be used to leverage the face open, and though dainty, the mechanism is very secure after so many generations, and is ready to safeguard the next caretaker's most treasured keepsakes. No matter its original purpose, this little jewel is adorned with abundant detailing, every element an intentional designation to its symbolic sentiment.
A note about foiled diamonds: The diamond is closed back and appears to be foiled. Foiling was a clever trick of the trade in which slips of foil were carefully placed in the cupped setting beneath the semi-translucent gemstones of choice, achieving a stunning glimmer in low candlelight which reflected the fire flames in dazzling brilliance. The effect of foil backing is characteristic of Georgian and early to mid Victorian jewelry, as it created a hypnotic twinkle under historic candlelit lighting conditions, prior to the invention of electricity.
One must keep in mind that the original owner for whom this cross was originally crafted did not occupy the kind of lifestyle or perform the same tasks we do today. This being the case, this foiled diamond relic was simply never intended or designed to withstand today's living. So, while this foiled jewelry is especially alluring attribute for collectors, they are quite vulnerable to water damage if even slightly wet. Water causes foil to discolor and darken, to somewhat dissolve, and it can get trapped between the stone and the setting. Thus, to prolong the life of secondhand jewelry, it should not be worn during physical activities and buyers should be mindful of condition notes and any presence of treatment-specific care.
By placing an order, you accept and agree to uphold all of Revival Fine Jewelry's terms, conditions and policies.
General Information: All additional jewelry boxes, ring boxes, and other jewelry items pictured alongside a featured listing are considered props, are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless otherwise noted. Items do not come with physical documentation, appraisals, or certifications, unless explicitly stated in the item description and/or title. While jewelry is inspected upon procurement by the shop as well as prior to shipment, Revival Fine Jewelry cannot guarantee a warranty once items leave our inventory, given the delicate and individual nature of secondhand articles and the unaccountability of buyer handling post-purchase.
Shipping: All orders are carefully packed within a branded Revival Fine Jewelry gift box, secured with recycled materials when possible, and shipped within a discreet outer shipping parcel. All orders ship with tracking, insurance and signature confirmation. Shipping options are presented at checkout. Per law and inegrity, international orders are always marked as commodity imports and customers are responsible for any and all customs expenses, VAT taxes and import fees, as well as any clearance costs legally dictated by their respective destination countries. These expenses are not calculated into the pricing structure, and returns based on import costs will not be permitted.
Returns: While Revival Fine Jewelry aims to provide a smooth experience from start to finish, customers are encouraged to reach out regarding any issue or dissatisfaction, so that we may work together toward a resolution. If a return is desired, the shop must be notified of an intention to return within 3 days of confirmed delivery, and item(s) must be shipped back to the shop within 7 days of confirmed delivery. All materials (gift box, inserts, cards) must be returned with the item(s). Returns declared after the 3 day window and/or postmarked after 7 days of receipt will neither be accepted nor refunded. Customers are responsible for generating an insured return shipping label (international customers included) and relaying the tracking information to Revival Fine Jewelry. Returns that do not include full insurance and/or tracking, and are damaged or lost in transit, will not be refunded. If a return is accepted, customers will be refunded less the original cost of shipping, handling and insurance, the expense of any damages incurred, and a 10% restocking fee (of the original purchase price). All sale items, items altered or resized by the buyer post-purchase, and all storage/ boxes are considered final sale and are ineligible for a return or refund.
Sale Terms: Sale prices are only valid within the prescribed sale window, unless otherwise stated by Revival Fine Jewelry or agreed upon between Revival Fine Jewelry and a designated customer. To maintain business sustainability and general fairness, individual customers are not entitled to exclusive notification of, or owed access to, store sales antecedently. Orders processed prior to a promotion or sale, items placed on layaway prior to a sale, and payments paid through layaway prior to a sale will not be retroactively adjusted to reflect sale pricing or terms.
Specially Negotiated Deals: Items purchased at specially negotiated discounts, deals or prices through any platform between Revival Fine Jewelry and a designated customer are considered final sale, including rates arranged and agreed upon via Facebook, Instagram, email or any other method. Closing deals at special rates reflects a desire by both parties to reach an expeditious and absolute sale. The intention of specially negotiated discounts, deals or sale prices through any platform between Revival Fine Jewelry and a designated customer, is to eliminate extra expenses and/or use of time and resources to formally list or re-list items per their specific and inherent value-determining qualities, as well as avoid unseen overhead business costs, stocking obligations, and all other disclosed or undisclosed monetary and nonmonetary expenditures.
Pricing: Revival Fine Jewelry reserves the right to decrease, increase, alter and modify inventory pricing to meet market rarity, demand or value; to offset platform, transaction or seller's fees; to adapt to economic inflation and fluctuation; and to defray specific business expenses. Pricing is the sole discretion of every small business.
Regarding Brooches & Pins: Often significantly and curiously undervalued jewelry items, brooches, pins and stick pins are treasured pieces of history in this shop. Accordingly, their pricing is calculated analogous to other fine jewelry, including their symbolic meaning, rarity and historical prestige. Such pieces are typically converted to other forms of jewelry, and are therefore becoming increasingly rare in their original states. Aside from being perfectly wearable as sophisticated lapel ornaments, brooches and pins of all kinds are prime candidates for many kinds of fine jewelry conversions, including rings, earrings, pendants, and charms, if so desired by the consumer post-purchase. Revival Fine Jewelry does not perform conversion projects for customers.
Regarding Storage & Boxes: All specifications, including but not limited to the measurements, age, origins, and material compositions are supplied in good faith as professional estimations constructed using professional grade tools, years of learned and honed skills, educational resources and academic scholarship, and refined research methods. Regardless of our confidence in our descriptions and the photographs deemed viable extensions of these descriptions, we cannot guarantee the definitiveness, faultlessness, or exactitude beyond our knowledge and expertise. Kindly keep in mind that this and all items are sold as-is vintage, antique and estate secondhand wares, and consequently bear conditional wear in matter and operation commensurate with age and use.
More information on these, and more, topics may be found in the shop policies.
All layaway terms may be found here, and all shop policies may be found here.
Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.
In exchange for offering interest-free plans, customers agree to abide and uphold the following nonnegotiable terms and conditions:
• A 30% deposit is due upfront to reserve the item for layaway and pull it from public sale on all of our shopping platforms. Shipping expenses are added to this first payment unless otherwise requested.
• The remaining 70% balance is divided up into three subsequent monthly payments due on the same day of the following three months. If deliquent, a $20.00 USD late fee is added per day to an overdue payment until paid.
• In the event that a layaway installment is left unpaid for seven (7) days and no communication is received from the designated customer, the layaway plan will be presumed abandoned. While the item will be returned to public sale, all payments made hitherto are still considered final.
Layaway items are promptly boxed and shipped to the designated customer once the final payment successfully processes. Taxes, import and other legal fees are not calculated into the payments, and are the sole responsibility of the customer, whether a domestic US or international buyer. Revival Fine Jewelry is not responsible for calculating, covering or adding such costs into purchase prices.
All layaway payments as well as all items purchased through layaway plans are considered final sale; neither payments nor items may be refunded, transferred, exchanged or returned. Revival Fine Jewelry does not issue store credit.
Revival Fine Jewelry reserves the right to cancel any layaway plan at any point for any reason if fraudulant activity is suspected. In this event, the designated customer will be notified prior to the intended cancellation of their plan.
To request a layaway plan, please email us here. Remember to specify your desired item by noting its link, title or code.