Art Deco 14k 2.76 CTW Rock Crystal, Coral & Gold Bead Safety Pin
Art Deco 14k 2.76 CTW Rock Crystal, Coral & Gold Bead Safety Pin
Art Deco 14k 2.76 CTW Rock Crystal, Coral & Gold Bead Safety Pin
Art Deco 14k 2.76 CTW Rock Crystal, Coral & Gold Bead Safety Pin
Art Deco 14k 2.76 CTW Rock Crystal, Coral & Gold Bead Safety Pin
Art Deco 14k 2.76 CTW Rock Crystal, Coral & Gold Bead Safety Pin
Art Deco 14k 2.76 CTW Rock Crystal, Coral & Gold Bead Safety Pin
Art Deco 14k 2.76 CTW Rock Crystal, Coral & Gold Bead Safety Pin
Art Deco 14k 2.76 CTW Rock Crystal, Coral & Gold Bead Safety Pin
Art Deco 14k 2.76 CTW Rock Crystal, Coral & Gold Bead Safety Pin
Art Deco 14k 2.76 CTW Rock Crystal, Coral & Gold Bead Safety Pin

BR429

Art Deco 14k 2.76 CTW Rock Crystal, Coral & Gold Bead Safety Pin

Regular price$650.00
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General Information:

  • Total Carat Weight:  2.76 ctw
  • Precious Metal Weight: 0.77 dwt 
  • Precious Metal Material: 14k yellow gold throughout
  • Dimensions:  This pin measures 38.97 mm long x about 3.90 mm wide (what faces up when worn) x about 7.15 mm deep when measured back to front including the stem to the pin's reverse.
  • Weight: A comfortable and practical weight of 1.20 grams
  • Markings: No markings present
  • Era: The brooch’s styling and specific gemstone choice, its functionality and its construction techniques all point to the height of the Art Deco years. It is estimated that this piece dates to the 1920s. Interestingly, the closure mechanism is an open c-clasp, which was not typically used beyond the turn of the century. Perhaps this pin slightly predates the coral/crystal trends of the '20s, and thus rooting it in late Edwardian fashion. This little anomaly is notable, but without knowing an exact provenance, we are not able to more definitively interpret its presence. 
  • Buyer Notes:  While petite and simple, this brooch is incredibly sweet, and is as useful as it is ornamental. The use of coral and rock crystal is a hallmark of Art Deco design, and is an iconic pairing found (and popularized) by Tiffany & Co., Fabergé, Cartier, House of Dior, David Webb and Georges L'Enfant. Authentic 1920s-1930s Deco coral and crystal jewels are exceptionally collectible today, and are not as common as one might presume. This small bauble is an affordable, chic addition for any collector!

Specifications:

  • Center Stone Type: Coral (natural, likely Mediterranean and undyed)
  • Center Stone Count:  Two (2)
  • Center Stone Dimensions: 3.7 mm on average
  • Center Stone Carat Weight: 0.38 ct each/0.76 ctw together, as calculated by formula per the specific gravity of coral
  • Center Stone Shape: Hand-carved spherical bead  
  • Center Stone Color: True oxblood; deep orangey-red
  • Center Stone Clarity: Opaque with natural waxy/vitreous luster
  • Center Stone Type: Rock Crystal Quartz (the purest variety of quartz, which is a crystalline mineral made of silica)
  • Center Stone Count: Five (5)
  • Center Stone Dimensions: 3.8 mm on average
  • Center Stone Carat Weight: 0.40 ct each/2.00 ctw altogether, as calculated by formula per the specific gravity of quartz crystal
  • Center Stone Shape: Hand-carved spherical bead
  • Center Stone Color: True colorless (not gray or warm in hue)
  • Center Stone Clarity: Semi-translucent with 'frosted' visual effect
  • Side "Stone" Type: 14k yellow gold (beads)
  • Side "Stone" Count: Four (4)
  • Side "Stone" Dimensions: 1.85 mm wide x 2.10-2.18 mm diameter
  • Side "Stone" Shape: Round drum-shaped beads

    The Story:

    Believed to have been fabricated during the roaring 1920s, this Art Deco brooch features a spread of eleven total beads arranged to create a lively graphic pattern. Visually anchoring the piece are a pair of natural coral beads, their rich red color glowing against a backdrop of five hazy crystal beads and four 14k gold accent beads. While the pin's design seems simple upon first glance, its structure reveals its technical make: this pin was crafted by the hand of a skilled artisan, the beads strung onto solid gold rod, which was subsequently manipulated so as to carefully create the sinuous twists that comprise the safety pin form. In this way, the beads are permanently strung in place, though they can be individually moved and spun by the finger.

    The Deco roots of this pin speak to the new era of socio-cultural and political changes that ensued after the First World War. Wartime led to a global reliance upon industry, and post-WWI, there was an uptick in interest and reverence for technologies and mechanized processes. Yet, as artists do, the creatives of the world sought to understand, harness and even challenge these changes through their work. Thus, movements such as Cubism, Futurism, Bauhaus, De Stijl, and even the beginnings of non-objective work and abstraction, all dominated the art world and likewise mightily influenced material culture of the time. The philosophies embodied in each movement also, therefore, shaped the new social and experiential norms of the post-war period, which saw both high hopes in the power of the machine as well as sincere pleasure in the frivolities of feeling alive (hence, the Jazz Age). These very same notions informed the realm of jewelry, too. Jewelry, as an expression of self, wealth, taste and heritage, among other identifiers, was also a reflection of the alternative philosophical leanings favored by fine and functional artists.

    Famed jewelry houses of the first half of the 20th century infused such ideologies and art tenets within their work, including the 'deconstructed' effect of abstracted art. The principles of art, as described above, were worked into jewelry design during the late teens and twenties, generating a shared--and, compared to earlier decades, relatively equalized-- appreciation by both the privileged wealthy AND the average middle class of the fundamentals of this new era of art: the machine versus the man as maker, the reorganization of space and elements therein, the power of the deconstructed form, the purity of primary color, and the union of form and function. These leading pillars are exhibited in much of the jewelry hailing from this pivotal 1918-1920s period.

    By the 1920s, famed jewelry houses worked to popularize artistic and modernist jewelry using the iconic combination of coral and crystal. Of particular note, makers such as Peter Carl Fabergé, Louis Cartier, House of Dior, David Webb and Georges L'Enfant all worked with this gemstone pairing, sometimes also integrating onyx, lapis lazuli, carnelian, diamonds and more to achieve various looks. The use of such gemmy fusions resulted in bright and vivid color-blocking-- a concept with origins in the acclaimed theories, paintings and work of Piet Mondrian (1872-1944), a leader of the De Stijl (Dutch for "The Style") Movement which spanned from 1917 to 1931 and overlapped with the more generally known Art Deco Movement.

    To best appreciate the poetic profundity of this pin, do consider it in light of its contemporaneous artworks:

    • Gerrit Rietveld's 'Red Blue Chair' (painted wood furnishing, 1918-1923; Modern Museum of Art, New York, New York, USA)
    • Piet Mondrian's 'Composition with Large Red Area, Yellow, Black, Gray and Blue' (oil on canvas, 1921; Kunstmuseum in Hague, Netherlands)
    • Tullio Crali's 'The Forces of the Bend' (oil on canvas, 1930; Estorick Collection in London, United Kingdom)
    • Anni Albers' 'Black-White-Red' (silk and cotton plain weave double cloth of paired warps and wefts, designed 1926-1927; Art Institute of Chicago in Chicago, Illinois, USA)
    • Eileen Gray's E-1027 (coastal villa, 1926-1929; the cliffs of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, France)

    Who knew that such a modest jewel could reveal such a sophisticated past?

    This piece was created to be a sweet decorative element for the lapel or collar, and today, can be worn as intended and in any orientation. Moreover, its striking aesthetic and smaller size capacitate it to be a thoughtful charm holder and/or necklace extender with which to link together two chains. However worn and enjoyed, this precious relic is a window into a groundbreaking era in design.

    By placing an order, you accept and agree to uphold Revival Fine Jewelry's terms, conditions and policies.

    Regarding All Purchases: All additional 'prop' jewelry boxes, ring boxes, or any other jewelry items pictured alongside the featured listing are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless explicitly noted in the listing description and/or title. Your order will be carefully packed within a branded Revival Fine Jewelry gift box and will ship in a discreet outer shipping parcel.

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