1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set
1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set

PA420

1860s Victorian 14k 0.35 CTW Old Mine Cut Diamond and Black Enamel Taille d’Épargne Demi Parure Earrings and Brooch Set

Regular price$2,930.00
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General Information:

  • Combined Total Carat Weight: by professional estimation per in-mount measurements so as to preserve the integrity of the jewels, six diamonds comprise 0.351 ctw 
  • Combined Precious Metal Weight: by professional estimation, a notable 11.8 dwt
  • Combined Precious Metal Material: as evaluated using shop tech, 12-16k yellow gold featuring a highly desirable organic patina
  • Combined Weight: a whopping 18.35 grams
  • Markings: No original hallmarking is present, which is not at all unusual for the era. However, the brooch’s stem pin was replaced at some point in the piece’s history long before procurement by Revival Fine Jewelry. This replaced pin is marked as 10k on the fastener/receiving female end. Through the end of the 19th century, brooch clasps were closed using an open c-clasp without any locking mechanism. As such, it is likely that the original stem pin was replaced so that the latest engineering could be employed to ensure the utmost security through the use of a locking closure. Please note that to effectively lock the pin, one must manually “click” the tab shut-- you will know it is locked because you will feel the tab snatch in place and can wiggle the tab to observe and test its security.
  • Era: The earrings and brooch date to approximately 1855-1865, as the Taille d’Épargne rose to popularity first in the UK in the mid 19th century, and remained in fashion through the late 1860s, particularly in America. While the brooch and earrings are at about 160 years old, the fastening technology exhibited in the make of this historic replacement dates it to approximately c. 1910-1920, just about 100 years old.
  • Buyer Notes: This listing is inclusive of the pair of earrings and the matching brooch, forming a Demi Parure together. This is a matched set, with correlating enamel tracery and etchwork. The earrings are designed for pierced lobes only. Some solder is present to the reverse of the earrings, affixing the closure systems to the earring tops. Likewise, the reverse of the brooch’s diamond settings show solder as well as the historic peg and nut mounting/construction system. Given the somewhat rougher appearance of the inside-reverser of the brooch, it is very possible that this concave space might once have been a locket-style compartment, wherein a hand-cut beveled glass face protected an alcove meant for the safekeeping of momentos. The drop pendants of the earrings and the brooch are all fully articulated, and dangle and swing in sync with the wearer’s motion. As such, the rings on which these pendants are hung show some wear commensurate with the three pieces’ age and affectionate use. Most importantly, it is insanely rare to find a set of Taille d’Épargne jewels, as most were divided up and passed on as separate family heirlooms. That these jewels survive as a demi parure makes them even more valuable and that much more collectible. This set is a direct reflection of the iconic merging of machinist fabrication and hand-fashioned craftsmanship, a display of mid Victorian trends set forth by the famed Queen Victoria, for whom the entire era is tenderly named. This set is a one of a kind, greatly sought after relic of a bygone era.

Specifications:

1. EARRINGS:
  • Total Carat Weight: 0.054 ctw
  • Precious Metal Weight: 6.15 dwt
  • Precious Metal Material: Sold to the shop as 14k with gilt closures, but our shop tech tests these as entirely 14-16k
  • Weight: a wonderfully weighty 9.60 grams
  • Dimensions: Overall, 52.89 mm long x 9.60 mm wide (measured at the widest point of the drops); top/lobe roundel is ~8.2 mm wide, and the drop length is ~45.02 mm
  • Center Stone Type: Diamond
  • Center Stone Count: Two (2)
  • Center Stone Shape: Petite Old Mine Cuts
  • Center Stone Dimensions: 1.92 x 1.92 x 1.20 mm
  • Center Stone Carat Weight: 0.027 ct ea.; 0.054 ctw
  • Center Stone Color: Estimated as H-I; stones are closed back and likely foiled so as to increase light refraction and sparkle; 160 years of life has rendered the foiling aged and oxidized, causing the presence of and shows a verdigris around the diamonds. This appears as a blue-green color to the eye. Foiled gemstones should not get wet, or the foiling risks further oxidation and deterioration behind the stones.
  • Center Stone Clarity: Estimated SI1-SI2, totally clean to the eye
2. BROOCH:
  • Total Carat Weight: 0.297 ctw
  • Precious Metal Weight: 5.65 dwt
  • Precious Metal Material: Sold to the shop as 14k with 10k drop pendant and stem pin closure, but our shop tech tests these as entirely 12-16k
  • Weight: a very impressive 8.75 grams
  • Dimensions: Overall, 60.87 mm long x 33.39 wide (measured at the widest point of the top portion) x 15.02 mm deep (measured including the stem pin to the table of the diamonds on the front); Drop pendant is 35.65 mm long (including pendant’s top loop and the main ring on which the chains and pendant are affixed)
  • Center Stone Type: Diamond
  • Center Stone Count: Four (4)
  • Center Stone Shape: Varying versions of the Old Mine Cut faceting system, with characteristically tall crowns. One stone appears almost as if a very delicate, incredibly rare Peruzzi Cut
  • Center Stone Dimensions: 2.70 x 2.60 x 2.00 mm; 2.50 x 2.36 x 1.61 mm; 2.51 x 2.31 x 1.78 mm; 2.04 x 2.79 x 1.89 mm
  • Center Stone Carat Weight: (in coordination with the order above) 0.094 ct, 0.060 ct, 0.069 ct, and 0.074 ct; 0.297 ctw
  • Center Stone Color: Estimated as H-J, appear matched and white to the eye
  • Center Stone Clarity: Estimated SI1-SI2, totally clean to the eye

The Story:

A wholly remarkable set indeed, this three-piece jewelry suite is known as a demi parure, consisting of a matching brooch and pair of earrings. This set dates to approximately 1855 to 1865, at the height of the 19th century’s mid Victorian period. This set exhibits characteristics that swept the fashions of the era, influenced by the Archeological Revivals informed by the (re) discoveries of the ancient world.

This set is a superb example of such Archeological Revival jewelry. Although revival styles first began to emerge in the Georgian years of the 1820s and 1830s, they grew to peak popularity during the 1850s through the end of the 1860s, from which this set originates. Archaeologically inspired jewels continued to be in demand through the end of the 19th century and even into the first decade of the 20th. This trend was brought on by the excavations of the Near East, Middle East, North African and Mediterranean civilizations. Inspired by the aesthetics of each of these, European and American artisans drove the iconic surge of Etruscan Revival, Egyptian Revival, Roman and Greek Revival styles. Revivalism premiered in the building and decorative arts, in high fashion, and of course, in jewelry. Craftsmen drew deep inspiration from all the wealth and relics recovered during excavations, and it was at world expositions that makers presented their designs. Queen Victoria took a keen interest in this new language of jewelry, and the rest of the world followed enthusiastically in suit.

This set features the recognizable use of Taille d’Épargne, which is commonly referred to as black enamel tracery. It is a technique achieved through delicate hand-cut etchwork that is then selectively filled with opaque enameling. Taille d’Épargne is a French term that translates to “saved (or collected) cuts”, referring to the intentional incisions to the gold’s surface, every single one carved by hand with deliberate placement and design intention. Particular low relief cuts are then filled with enameling, creating the black geometricized motifs upon the precious metal. The effect is almost like a very crisp transferware-like appearance, but the process is all produced by hand and predates engine-turned enameling shown in the precision of guilloché that took over fashions by the turn of the century. The Taille d’Épargne technique was produced on a large scale in Birmingham, UK by the 1850s, the styling of which was replicated in America through the 1860s.

The Victorian era is much beloved for its use of symbolism within jewelry; every detail was designed to convey a message, together weaving a story within wearable adornments. In this set, the motif is rigid and geometric, as well as whimsical and romantic. We can see a clever combination of the two spectrums to create a pleasing marriage of striking elements and strong symbolism:

The diamond-centric focus of the brooch is enhanced by a background of black tracery in the form of a sharply shadowed four-armed compass, set upright and unwavering, its north arm pointing directly upward. Four arcs span the interstitial spaces between the compass’ arms, producing a dotted quatrefoil. Extending from the east and west arms are billowing wisps of symmetrical acanthus foliation that tapers to a fleur-de-lis shaped trefoil. In perfect complement, the brooch’s drop pendant centers a striped marquise outlined with cyma swirls and topped by a right angle cross whose arms are foliated in tandem. A black-filled fleur-de-lis completes the drop’s design at its base and visually balances the ornate designs above.

Smartly recalling the brooch, the earrings feature a primary roundel decorated with similar compass designs, both punctuated by bezel set diamonds backed with foiling (which, today, shows commensurate verdigris oxidation). The earrings’ drop pendants are more elaborate variations of the brooch’s drop, showing a very similar design that boasts added elements. Most notably, the top half of the pendant shows an enlarged, more exhaustive foliate cross, while the bottom half of the pendant’s design shows a stylized belt motif, a common theme in Victorian sentimental jewelry.

The motif displayed tells a story that the original wearer would have known and cherished: the taut compass points north as a reminder of Divine guidance and stable footing, no matter the ebbs and flows of life or her seasons, represented by the quatrefoil backing the compass. The acanthus silhouettes speak to perseverance and fortitude, as acanthus plants are known for their unmatched ability to thrive in even the harshest of conditions. The fleur-de-lis is French in origin, a stylized rendition of the budding lily flower. It symbolizes holiness and royalty, telling the wearer her status as a daughter of God, and signifying this status as constant no matter her choices or direction. The foliate cross communicates the abiding and fruitful life of abundance and reward that may be found in faith, while the belt projects the notion of passionate loyalty in the security of relationships, throughout both life and eternally in death.

Black enameling often responds to both grief and power, and while this set is not necessarily a mourning set, it does convey a more serious tone that emits dynamic puissance and dominating stature. This set would have originally been worn by a very fashionable woman, one who knew the distinct confidence and purpose of jewels as articles of repute as well as ornamentation. This suite is rich in material makeup, a tactile glimpse into the life and values of the Victorian era, and is a true and rare treasure of a long-lost art. In its totality, this lively and fully articulated set bears a wealth of meaning and is abounding in character. 

By placing an order, you accept and agree to uphold Revival Fine Jewelry's terms, conditions and policies.

Regarding All Purchases: All additional 'prop' jewelry boxes, ring boxes, or any other jewelry items pictured alongside the featured listing are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless explicitly noted in the listing description and/or title. Your order will be carefully packed within a branded Revival Fine Jewelry gift box and will ship in a discreet outer shipping parcel.

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Regarding Brooches & Pins: Often significantly and curiously undervalued jewelry items, brooches, pins and stick pins are treasured pieces of history in this shop. Accordingly, their pricing is calculated analogous to other fine jewelry, including their symbolic meaning, rarity and historical prestige. Such pieces are typically converted to other forms of jewelry, and are therefore becoming increasingly rare in their original states. Aside from being perfectly wearable as sophisticated lapel ornaments, brooches and pins of all kinds are prime candidates for many kinds of fine jewelry conversions, including rings, earrings, pendants, and charms, if so desired by the consumer post-purchase. Revival Fine Jewelry does not perform conversion projects for customers.

Regarding Storage & Boxes: All specifications, including but not limited to the measurements, age, origins, and material compositions are supplied in good faith as professional estimations constructed using professional grade tools, years of learned and honed skills, educational resources and academic scholarship, and refined research methods. Regardless of our confidence in our descriptions and the photographs deemed viable extensions of these descriptions, we cannot guarantee the definitiveness, faultlessness, or exactitude beyond our knowledge and expertise. Kindly keep in mind that this and all items are sold as-is vintage, antique and estate secondhand wares, and consequently bear conditional wear in matter and operation commensurate with age and use.

Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.

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