1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch
1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch

BR419

1860s 14k 0.43 CTW Rhodolite Garnet and Aquamarine Cannetille Etched Etruscan Revival Brooch

Regular price$695.00
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  • Unique find! Only 1 available.

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General Information:

  • Total Carat Weight: 0.425 ctw
  • Precious Metal Weight: 2.57 dwt
  • Precious Metal Material: 14k patinaed yellow gold
  • Dimensions: 40.67 mm long x 19.16 mm wide x 12.19 mm deep
  • Weight: 4 grams
  • Markings: Unmarked but tests for 14k yellow gold
  • Era: circa 1850-1870
  • Buyer Notes:  The center aquamarine shows two chips, as pictured, which do not detract from the character of the jewel and are not readily apparent when worn. The stem pin and closure are early 20th century welded replacements, and are base metal. The locking mechanism does close but does not always stay closed, and there are a few areas that evidence expected maintenance over the pin’s lifetime. As such, the pricing has been adjusted to reflect all mentioned imperfections as commensurate characteristics from age, time and loving wear. This brooch is an excellent candidate for conversion to a knuckle-to-knuckle spreading statement ring, a stationary necklace or a vertical drop pendant.

    Specifications:

    • Center Stone Type: Aquamarine
    • Center Stone Count: One (1)
    • Center Stone Dimensions: 3.46 mm x 3.55 mm x 1.65 mm
    • Center Stone Carat Weight: professionally estimated 0.084 ct
    • Center Stone Shape: Round faceted
    • Center Stone Color: Light blue
    • Side Stone Type: Rhodolite Garnet
    • Side Stone Count: Four (4)
    • Side Stone Dimensions: 2.48 mm, 2.81 mm, 2.66 mm and 2.90 mm
    • Side Stone Carat Weight: professionally estimated and corresponding to the above dimensions: 0.074 ct, 0.090 ct, 0.083 ct, 0.094; 0.341 ctw
    • Side Stone Shape: Round faceted
    • Side Stone Color: Pinkish with ever so slight purplish undertone

    The Story:

     Crafted by hand in the 19th century, this early to mid Victorian brooch is a wonderful example of Archeological Revival jewelry. Such revival styles date to the Georgian years of the 1820s and 1830s, and grew to peak popularity during the 1850s and 1870s. Yet, such styles continued to be in demand through the end of the 19th century and even into the first decade of the 20th.

    This trend was brought on by re-discoveries of the ancient world, and in the decorative arts, craftsmen drew deep inspiration from all that was recovered during excavations. It was at the London International Exhibition of Industry and Art of 1862 that many jewelers presented another variation of the Revival styles, which harkened to a slightly more recent past; Neo-Renaissance designs were en vogue and just as praised as the Etruscan Revival designs, of which this brooch shows elements of both.

    This piece is a sweet example of mid Victorian design, with a handmade composition emphasizing hand cut stones. The gems are natural, cut by the hand of an artisan at least 160 years ago. The centermost aquamarine gemstone encircled by a quatrefoil of rhodolite garnets with interstitial granulated gold roundels. Interestingly, rhodolite garnets are much, much rarer than the common almandine garnet (the deep red wine colored garnet), and are much beloved for their ruby-like appearance and vivid coloration. Rhodolites have a chemical composition that is a mix between almandine and pyrope garnets, chemically leaning toward the latter.

    These five gems are closed back, gripped by the tiniest triangular claw prongs carefully folded over atop the gems’ girdles. It is likely that they are foiled, a technique designed specifically to catch the twinkle of candlelight. Foiled stones have a slip of metallic material placed delicately between the back of the stone and the gold cup in which it sits, so as to catch the light and reflect a vibrant coloration and sparkle.

    This long lost technique shoots light across and out of the stones, visually saturating the rhodolite garnets and aquamarine with a spectrum of moody tones. Foiling was employed for hundreds of years, even up through the end of the 1890s. While incredibly lovely, it must be noted that foiling within a jewel renders that piece a bit more susceptible to damage from water and dampness. As such, it is best to keep foiled jewelry well away from water to extend the life and quality of the piece.

    These central features sit proud of the surface of the brooch atop a concave circle that is decorated with hand looped gold wire, milgraining and twisting cannetille style smithing. Flanking the gemstone center are a pair of kite-shaped gold forms that are intricately etched by hand with enchanting sunburst motifs, both complete with three dimensional globes of solid gold. More hand etched gold components sweep toward the tapered ends, and boast subtle zigzag patterns and linework. Altogether, the complexity of the details divulge the story of archaeologically inspired craftsmanship.

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