General Information:
- US Size: 5.00 (on the largest hole)
- Precious Metal Weight: Approximately 4.29 dwt
- Precious Metal Material: 18k polished rose gold
- Dimensions: Buckle frame is 12.38 mm north to south; ~1.20 mm gold mesh band depth (rise from the finger)
- Weight: A desirably weighty 6.67 grams
- Markings: “BREVETÉ” meaning ‘patented’ in French; “750” meaning 18k gold content; “[K? N? R?] obe” which we believe may be a French jewelry house importer; “20 VR” for the maker, Filippini Fratelli (later known as the Fratelli brothers). The Fratelli brothers founded their operation in 1938 in Verona, Italy.
- Era: From the maker mark (and therefore the maker history), as well as from the aesthetic styling of the ring and its mesh make, we estimate that it dates to right about 1940, or the earlier part of that decade. However, without knowing an exact provenance, it is not possible to know its precise date range.
- Buyer Notes: This ring is a wonderful and rare example of its kind, and is as stylish as it is functional. It DOES operate just like a belt, so its sizing can be adjusted between size 1 (on the smallest hole), size 3 (on the middle hole), and size 5 (on the largest hole). We do not see any areas of repair, though one area along the edge of the mesh shows a re-soldering of gold to fix, what we can only suppose was, a riven link or two. The links are no longer jeopardized, as one can see that this historic work sufficiently remedied the issue. PLEASE reference the many more photos on our website, as ALL photos on all our platforms are considered extensions of this description; we trust that all prospective buyers have taken the time to peruse all photos and comprehend all supplied information prior to purchase.
The Story:
Extraordinarily made by hand over 80 years ago, this ring is composed of an intricate weaving of solid rose gold links, each one measuring well under ½ a millimeter. The effect is a super silky feel against the skin, softly snaking around the finger for remarkably comfortable and easy wear. This ring is masterfully designed to be operated just like a true-sized belt, the strap of the belt sliding in and out of the squared frame and securing with the tongue in any of three adjustment holes. The three sizing holes together enable it to fit three different petite sized fingers, including approximately US sizes 1, 3 and 5. The smaller size ranges offered by the clever make of this piece also contribute to its rarity and desirability, as these smaller sizes are less prevalent across the market.
This band is notable for the engineering that went into its fabrication, exhibiting a finely honed skill of goldsmithing that is not frequently shown in contemporary pieces. Indeed, the Fratelli Brothers (established in 1938) who crafted this statement ring in the early 1940s, hallmarked, rose to quick fame for their unmatched proficiency in this kind of mesh-making, and continued to produce gold mesh jewelry as it became highly fashionable during that same decade. What makes this piece alluringly curious are the array of accompanying stamps that are found on the inside of the buckle frame:
The Fratelli stamp is the “20 VR” housed within the horizontally-oriented cut-corner diamond shaped cartouche. Next to it, another horizontally-oriented diamond shaped cartouche features the numbers “750”, representing the gold content of the ring, which is 75% gold or 18 karat. Immediately beside this purity mark is a hallmark which we have been unable to trace as of the time of the listing. It reads “[K? N? R?] obe”, in which the primary capitalized letter’s leg extends as an underline beneath the other letters. Is this, perhaps, a French jewelry house who imported the piece to sell in their shop? We cannot be certain, though this is a very common practice, including by such high end retailers as Tiffany & Co. Buttressing our guess that this mark is that of a French importer is the additional French term “BREVETÉ” that translates to mean patented, which may be seen on the interior of the buckle bar, as pictured.
This ring is luxurious and elegant, a bold statement that is simultaneously minimal, mod and architectural. Yet, the belt motif has been much beloved and has made appearances throughout jewelry history since the late Georgian period in the early 1800s. The style later gained popularity when Queen Victorian began to don her own, adoring it for the messages of loyalty, fidelity, remembrance and security that it so sweetly conveys. This ring takes this iconic theme and reimagines it as a wearable sculpture, something that both practically performs and metaphorically symbolizes. In true retro fashion, this ring is sexy and chic, recalling the Golden Age in which it was produced, and putting on full display the incredible craftsmanship of its acclaimed maker.
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Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.
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