- Total Carat Weight: 2.71 ctw
- Precious Metal Weight: 3.33 dwt
- Precious Metal Material: This piece is believed to have a silver top & base metal stem; the silver may be a lower content, such as 800 or so.
- Dimensions: This pin measures 83.02 mm overall top to bottom; the gemstone head measures 20.51 mm north to south (length) x 20.40 mm east to west (width) x 8.90 mm back to front (depth) including the affixed stem to the pin's reverse.
- Weight: A desirably weighty 5.18 grams
- Markings: Unmarked, as is typical for pieces of this era
- Era: Research shows that this pin dates to between the 1760s and the 1770s.
- Buyer Notes: This pin is a rare example for its kind, as there are virtually no other comparables like it on the open market at the time of research and listing, making this piece an exceptional addition to any antique jewelry enthusiast's collection. The gemstones feature foil backing, a high-end treatment to gemstones during the 18th century, which require thoughtful handling today. Prospective buyers, please read "The Story" below for more information on the history and care of foil backed gemstones. Please note that the foiled settings show verdigris and time-earned wear, resulting in a speckled appearance, areas of demichroma, discoloration or a color-change effect. This piece is being sold exactly as-is, and each mark, trait, and element is proudly considered a reverently-prized badge of honor. While perfectly wearable as a lapel or collar embellishment, it is also a prime candidate for a conversion into a ring, pendant, charm, single earring, etc., by the buyer's trusted jeweler post-purchase. This pin does not come with a clutch.
- Center Stone Type: Crystal Quartz (Cut Rock Crystal; in this case, all eight of these cut crystal gems are designed to mimic the appearance of natural chrysoberyls, foiled to recall the earthy range of color that chrysoberyl stones exhibit)
- Center Stone Count: One (1)
- Center Stone Dimensions: 5.75 x 5.75 mm
- Center Stone Carat Weight: 0.51 ct by formula per the specific gravity of crystal quartz
Center Stone Shape: Old Mine cut variant
- Center Stone Color and Clarity: The crystal quartz itself is colorless and translucent, but the chromatic foiled backing creates an optical effect of refractivity within a colored gemstone. This center stone is foiled to appear a golden-yellow honey color.
- Side Stone Type: Crystal Quartz (Cut Rock Crystal)
- Side Stone Count: Four (4)
Side Stone Dimensions and Carat Weights:
- 4.45 x 5.00 mm = 0.34 ct (light green to pale chartreuse color)
- 4.65 x 5.10 mm = 0.36 ct (light golden-brown honey color)
- 4.20 x 4.70 mm = 0.30 ct (slightly duller champagne-gray gold color)
- 4.30 x 4.75 mm = 0.32 ct (whitish-clear with very slight gray-gold hue)
Side Stone Shape: A crossover of an Old Mine Cushion to Peruzzi Cut
- Side Stone Color and Clarity: The crystal quartz itself is colorless and translucent, but the chromatic foiled backing creates an optical effect of refractivity within a colored gemstone. These elongated stones are foiled to appear the colors noted above.
- Side Stone Type: Crystal Quartz (Cut Rock Crystal)
- Side Stone Count: Four (4)
- Side Stone Dimensions and Carat Weights: 3.75 x 3.70 mm on average, for an estimated 0.22 ct each
Side Stone Shape: Old Mine cut variant
- Side Stone Color and Clarity: The crystal quartz itself is colorless and translucent, but the chromatic foiled backing creates an optical effect of refractivity within a colored gemstone. These round cut stones are foiled to appear earthy yellow-brown, pale buttery-brown, whitish-clear with very slight gray-gold hue, and muddy greenish-brown.
Romantically moody and beguiling in both tone and age, this antique stick pin hails from just shy of the mid Georgian years, dating to between 1760 and 1770. It is a wonderfully weighty piece for a stick pin, and the silver head is mounted with a sultry spread of eight crystal quartz gemstones, each one cut, faceted and polished by the hand of an artisan over 260 years ago.
Each crystal stone boasts the soaring height and steep slopes that are characteristic of historic gemstone cutting styles, particularly recalling Old Mine Cuts and their rare predecessor, the Peruzzi Cut. They are also each closed-backed with and set with colorful metallic foils complete with black dots for effect. Brilliantly designed, these foils cause in the stones a unique twinkle and flash, coloring them to appear as if they are chrysoberyl gemstones. Chrysoberyls were amongst the most coveted luxury goods of the era, and jewelers commonly crafted other stones, such as pastes and crystals, to be foiled in such a way as to impersonate the earthy, muddied green-gold chroma of natural chrysoberyls. This stick pin is one such jewel, a surviving-- and stylish--relic of 18th century high fashions.
Each stone is set in a cut-down crimped collet setting so that the silvery-metal setting carefully hugs the girdles of each stone so as to prevent exposing their delicate edges. This mounting style was common during the Georgian period, and indeed, continued to be used for featured settings in jewelry through the end of the 19th century prior to the proliferation of open prong mounting styles. This piece is created to embody an undulating, petaled motif, set on an axis so that it appears more floral than cross-like. In effect, the design is a geometricized version of an iconic giardinetti jewel, a term that is Italian for 'little garden(s)'.
Giardinetti brooches and rings were very popular during the Georgian and Victorian years, and were usually asymmetrical and sensuously Rococo, with voluptuous floral motifs that conveyed a sense of abundance and pleasure, fruitfulness and vitality. Yet, this pin's composition is less wild and restricted to a gridlike silhouette, still floral, yet demure. Its color and configuration indicate that it may be Portuguese in origin, though without knowing its precise provenance, this cannot be known for certain. Examples of floral cluster jewelry from this era, such as this pin, reflect these aesthetic philosophies, and all such extravagant pin accessories were worn and enjoyed by both men and women during the Georgian and Victorian years.
A note about foiled gemstones: During the Georgian period and prior, gemstones such as cut crystal, lead paste, and pearls oftentimes commanded HIGHER pricing than natural diamonds. It was common to set these precious stones in closed-back settings to enable the foiling process, a clever trick of the trade in which pieces of foil were carefully placed in the cupped setting beneath the gemstones of choice. The result of foiling stones was a hypnotic twinkle under historic lighting conditions, enabling the foiled refractivity to glimmer in low candlelight, as the foil reflected the flames in dazzling brilliance. These crystals also boast the black dot effect, wherein a black dot was painted onto the center of the each foil slip, which, when fully mounted as we see today, gives the crystals the impression of having the large, open culets which are characteristic of historic faceting styles.
One must keep in mind that the original owner for whom this cross was originally crafted did not occupy the kind of lifestyle or perform the same tasks we do today. This being the case, this foiled diamond relic was simply never intended or designed to withstand today's living. So, while this foiled jewelry is especially alluring attribute for collectors, they are quite vulnerable to water damage if even slightly wet. Water causes foil to discolor and darken, to somewhat dissolve, and it can get trapped between the stone and the setting. Thus, to prolong the life of secondhand jewelry, it should not be worn during physical activities and buyers should be mindful of condition notes and any presence of treatment-specific care.
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General Information: All additional jewelry boxes, ring boxes, and other jewelry items pictured alongside a featured listing are considered props, are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless otherwise noted. Items do not come with physical documentation, appraisals, or certifications, unless explicitly stated in the item description and/or title. While jewelry is inspected upon procurement by the shop as well as prior to shipment, Revival Fine Jewelry cannot guarantee a warranty once items leave our inventory, given the delicate and individual nature of secondhand articles and the unaccountability of buyer handling post-purchase.
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Regarding Brooches & Pins: Often significantly and curiously undervalued jewelry items, brooches, pins and stick pins are treasured pieces of history in this shop. Accordingly, their pricing is calculated analogous to other fine jewelry, including their symbolic meaning, rarity and historical prestige. Such pieces are typically converted to other forms of jewelry, and are therefore becoming increasingly rare in their original states. Aside from being perfectly wearable as sophisticated lapel ornaments, brooches and pins of all kinds are prime candidates for many kinds of fine jewelry conversions, including rings, earrings, pendants, and charms, if so desired by the consumer post-purchase. Revival Fine Jewelry does not perform conversion projects for customers.
Regarding Storage & Boxes: All specifications, including but not limited to the measurements, age, origins, and material compositions are supplied in good faith as professional estimations constructed using professional grade tools, years of learned and honed skills, educational resources and academic scholarship, and refined research methods. Regardless of our confidence in our descriptions and the photographs deemed viable extensions of these descriptions, we cannot guarantee the definitiveness, faultlessness, or exactitude beyond our knowledge and expertise. Kindly keep in mind that this and all items are sold as-is vintage, antique and estate secondhand wares, and consequently bear conditional wear in matter and operation commensurate with age and use.
More information on these, and more, topics may be found in the shop policies.
All layaway terms may be found here, and all shop policies may be found here.
Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.
In exchange for offering interest-free plans, customers agree to abide and uphold the following nonnegotiable terms and conditions:
• A 30% deposit is due upfront to reserve the item for layaway and pull it from public sale on all of our shopping platforms. Shipping expenses are added to this first payment unless otherwise requested.
• The remaining 70% balance is divided up into three subsequent monthly payments due on the same day of the following three months. If deliquent, a $20.00 USD late fee is added per day to an overdue payment until paid.
• In the event that a layaway installment is left unpaid for seven (7) days and no communication is received from the designated customer, the layaway plan will be presumed abandoned. While the item will be returned to public sale, all payments made hitherto are still considered final.
Layaway items are promptly boxed and shipped to the designated customer once the final payment successfully processes. Taxes, import and other legal fees are not calculated into the payments, and are the sole responsibility of the customer, whether a domestic US or international buyer. Revival Fine Jewelry is not responsible for calculating, covering or adding such costs into purchase prices.
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To request a layaway plan, please email us here. Remember to specify your desired item by noting its link, title or code.