General Information:
- Total Carat Weight: 3.20 ct
- Precious Metal Weight: Approximately ~ 2.88 dwt
- Precious Metal Material: On our professional digital tester, the gold backing tests as 9k-10k patinaed yellow gold and the stem pin and c-clasp test a bit higher at 12k-14k. The pastes are mounted within a crimped silver face, while the body/interior appears to be a base metal.
- Dimensions: 2This pin measures 22.32 mm long x 16.05 mm wide x 7.25 mm deep including stem pin and closure to the reverse.
- Weight: A wonderfully hefty 4.48 grams
- Markings: Unmarked, as is typical for pieces of this era, though tests for silver topped gold
- Era: Research shows that this pin dates to between the 1750s and the 1780s, likely toward the end of this window of time.
- Buyer Notes: A reverent and captivating jewel owed to long gone mourning traditions, this Georgian pin is a lovely relic of the 18th century. One must remember that this jewel is a masterpiece of handicraft, preserving evidence of the original artist's hand in every detail, just as much as it honors its place within socio-cultural history. Most notably, the central enameled oval portion does intentionally open and remove, revealing a hidden locket compartment within! This secret compartment likely originally held a lock of a loved one's hair, though now is empty and ready to safely house for your tiniest keepsakes. While the market is flooded with stunning mourning and sentimental pieces from this era, none bear quite the same essence or qualities as this delicate number. This piece is petite but powerful, an impressive little accessory that equally conveys beauty, symbolism and soul.
Specifications:
- Center Stone Type: Paste (a leaded glass designed to simulate natural diamonds)
- Center Stone Count: Sixteen (16)
- Center Stone Dimensions: On average, about 3.30 x 3.10 mm
- Center Stone Carat Weight: 0.20 ct each by formula per the specific gravity of glass. This totals 3.20 ctw altogether
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Center Stone Shape: Peruzzi to Trapezoidal Cuts
- Center Stone Color: Colorless stones with foil backing; some oxidation and verdigris is present giving some of the pastes a kiss of yellow-green hue
- Center Stone Clarity: Translucent
- Center Stone Notes: Please read "The Story" below for more information on the history and care of foil backed gemstones.
The Story:
A very special little jewel, this Georgian pin is utterly striking in color and charming in design. The front features a glowing halo of hand cut, faceted and polished paste stones mounted within a continuous pinched collet mounting. This ring of gems embraces a panel of semi-translucent, vivid cobalt blue enameling punctuated by a perimeter of clean, opaque white enamel. This gouged etchwork is something of a hand-fabricated precursor to the engine-turned guilloché of the turn of the 19th to 20th century. Prior to machine-turned etching, all such detailing was painstakingly completed by the hand of a skilled artisan. The translucence of the enamel is notable because it allows light to bounce in and out and ‘iridesce' atop the gold metal beneath. Through significant magnification, the subtle imperfections of the radiating linework are perceptible, a most charming reminder of its handcrafted origins.
The cobalt and white enameling is brought to life with slender concentric ovals of gold, interstitially separating the colors so as to recall the effect of milgraining. It is very likely that this piece was originally designed to commemorate a deceased loved one, indicated by the use of white enamel, which was specifically reserved to memorialize either an infant, small child, or an unmarried youth. As such, the presence of the white band is a somber clue of the jewel's purpose. Because this pin's handcrafted details tell us that it was made before the adoption of mass-production machinery, we can surmise that it was made custom for a parent, relative, friend or loved one of the departed. A most desirable feature is that the central enameled portion can be carefully taken out (much like a miniature box) to reveal a tiny locket compartment. Indeed, this piece is very secure after all these generations, and is ready to safeguard the next caretaker's most treasured keepsakes.
The blue's bright chroma is captivating against the foiled paste surround. The use of either blue Bristol glass or deep, cobalt blue enameling was designed to be a beguiling allusion to the depth and mystery of the heavens. Rings of this nature-- which often were sizably created to span from knuckle to knuckle and embellished with diamond “stars” throughout-- were known as “Bagues au Firmament”, translating from French to mean “Rings of the Heavens”. They were most popularized by Marie Antoinette in the 1780s as breakthroughs in astronomy illuminated the 18th century era, and influenced science, art, faith and fashion.
This pin is a youthful take on this celestial movement reimagined as a memorial to a young person: the vibrancy of the blue suggests a divine reclamation of the honoree in youth, their effervescence inspiriting the sky. The white border encompasses the blue heavens, a reminder that the lost are ever present, while the halo of bright pastes is intended to represent the tears of grief and love, which in holy affection, forever bind the departed with the living. While the honoree of this sweet pin is no longer known, their memory is uplifted through the enjoyment of this reverent jewel. A delightfully delicate treasure, this late 18th century pin dates to between 1750 and 1780, and was designed to be lightweight and petite enough to be fastened to a lady’s lace, cotton/linen, or silk fichu situated at her mid to upper bust. This little jewel is adorned with abundant detailing, every element an intentional designation to its symbolic sentiment.
A note about foiled paste: The paste stones appear to be black dot paste, wherein the maker of the piece painted black dots at the centers of each foil slip backing each stone, which when complete, would give the pastes the impression of having the open culets which are characteristic of historic faceting. During this period, paste stones commanded HIGHER pricing than natural diamonds, as did pearls. It was common to set stones in closed-back settings to enable the foiling process, a clever of the trade in which pieces of foil were carefully placed in the cupped setting beneath the gemstones of choice. Through foiling, stones achieved a stunning glimmer in low candlelight and reflected the flames in dazzling brilliance. The effect of crystal-like glass paste stones with foil backing is a hypnotic twinkle under historic lighting conditions.
One must keep in mind that the original owner for whom this cross was originally crafted did not occupy a lifestyle like we do today: he or she was not performing the same household tasks, taking part in the same social engagements and duties, pursuing the same athletic endeavors, adhering to the same hygienic practices, etc. This being the case, this foiled diamond relic was simply never intended or designed to withstand today's living. So, while this foiled jewelry is especially alluring attribute for collectors, they are quite vulnerable to water damage if even slightly wet. Water causes foil to discolor and darken, to somewhat dissolve, and it can get trapped between the stone and the setting. Thus, to prolong the life of secondhand jewelry, it should not be worn during physical activities and buyers should be mindful of condition notes and any presence of treatment-specific care.
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General Information: All additional jewelry boxes, ring boxes, and other jewelry items pictured alongside a featured listing are considered props, are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless otherwise noted. Items do not come with physical documentation, appraisals, or certifications, unless explicitly stated in the item description and/or title. While jewelry is inspected upon procurement by the shop as well as prior to shipment, Revival Fine Jewelry cannot guarantee a warranty once items leave our inventory, given the delicate and individual nature of secondhand articles and the unaccountability of buyer handling post-purchase.
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Regarding Brooches & Pins: Often significantly and curiously undervalued jewelry items, brooches, pins and stick pins are treasured pieces of history in this shop. Accordingly, their pricing is calculated analogous to other fine jewelry, including their symbolic meaning, rarity and historical prestige. Such pieces are typically converted to other forms of jewelry, and are therefore becoming increasingly rare in their original states. Aside from being perfectly wearable as sophisticated lapel ornaments, brooches and pins of all kinds are prime candidates for many kinds of fine jewelry conversions, including rings, earrings, pendants, and charms, if so desired by the consumer post-purchase. Revival Fine Jewelry does not perform conversion projects for customers.
Regarding Storage & Boxes: All specifications, including but not limited to the measurements, age, origins, and material compositions are supplied in good faith as professional estimations constructed using professional grade tools, years of learned and honed skills, educational resources and academic scholarship, and refined research methods. Regardless of our confidence in our descriptions and the photographs deemed viable extensions of these descriptions, we cannot guarantee the definitiveness, faultlessness, or exactitude beyond our knowledge and expertise. Kindly keep in mind that this and all items are sold as-is vintage, antique and estate secondhand wares, and consequently bear conditional wear in matter and operation commensurate with age and use.
More information on these, and more, topics may be found in the shop policies.
All layaway terms may be found here, and all shop policies may be found here.
Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.
In exchange for offering interest-free plans, customers agree to abide and uphold the following nonnegotiable terms and conditions:
- A 30% deposit is due upfront to reserve the item for layaway and pull it from public sale on all of our shopping platforms. Shipping expenses are added to this first payment unless otherwise requested.
- The remaining 70% balance is divided up into three subsequent monthly payments due on the same day of the following three months. If delinquent, a $20.00 USD late fee is added per day to an overdue payment until paid.
- In the event that a layaway installment is left unpaid for seven (7) days and no communication is received from the designated customer, the layaway plan will be presumed abandoned. While the item will be returned to public sale, all payments made hitherto are still considered final.
Layaway items are promptly boxed and shipped to the designated customer once the final payment successfully processes. Taxes, import and other legal fees are not calculated into the payments, and are the sole responsibility of the customer, whether a domestic US or international buyer. Revival Fine Jewelry is not responsible for calculating, covering or adding such costs into purchase prices.
All layaway payments as well as all items purchased through layaway plans are considered final sale; neither payments nor items may be refunded, transferred, exchanged or returned. Revival Fine Jewelry does not issue store credit.
Revival Fine Jewelry reserves the right to cancel any layaway plan at any point for any reason if fraudulent activity is suspected. In this event, the designated customer will be notified prior to the intended cancellation of their plan.
Request a layaway plan via email here. Remember to specify your desired item by providing its link, title or SKU/code.