General Information:
- Total Carat Weight: 1.947 ctw
- Total Precious Metal Weight: Approximately 5.76 dwt
- Precious Metal Material: Procured by the shop as 14k, though our tester is reading between at least 15k and 17k, possibly with traces of a high karat wash on top; deep, warm yellow gold (not a true pink gold, but rather tonal, patinaed gold)
- Dimensions: 57.46 mm length x 23.43 mm width x 12.49 mm depth/rise not including the stem pin
- Weight: An impressive 8.96 grams
- Markings: A very worn hallmark is stamped into the stem pin. It appears to be a rectangular cartouche depression set in a horizontal orientation, and perhaps a fish or mermaid’s tail inside. From hundreds of years of affectionate use, this outward facing mark is buffed to indiscernibility.
- Era: This brooch is believed to date to the early to mid Victorian period, sometime around 1840 to 1850.
- Buyer Notes: In addition to its beauty, this brooch bears the kiss of time, and shows areas of some soldering, the beginnings of some splitting under extreme 90x+ magnification, and some wear to the bezels surrounding the turquoise gemstones. Some stones show areas of loss and flea bites along their girdles, as pictured. PLEASE NOTE that one turquoise has been lost to the ages, which we have opted to leave as-is, being that its loss is very much a chapter in this piece’s storied history-- though it may easily be resolved by your jeweler post-purchase should you so desire. The closure functions on a tube hinge and open c-clasp (pin securely snap into the c-clasp). All of these aspects should be expected of a delicate antique jewel of such significant age and meaning, and all are commensurate with its epoch and use, though the price has been set to fairly reflect their presence.
Specifications:
- Center Stone Type: Turquoise
- Center Stone Count: Three (3)
- Center Stone Dimensions and Carat Weights:
- 3.60 x 3.64 mm = 0.24 ct
- 4.40 x 4.50 mm = 0.33 ct
- 3.92 x 3.76 mm = 0.21 ct
- Together, these 3 center stones total 0.78 ctw
- Center Stone Shape: Round cabochon
- Side Stone Type: Turquoise
- Side Stone Count: Twenty-Six (26)
- Side Stone Dimensions and Carat Weights:
- 14 stones are about 1.85 x 2.25 mm = 0.033 ct ea./ 0.462 ctw
- 9 stones are about 2.12 x 2.34 mm = 0.043 ct ea./0.387 ctw
- 3 stones are about 2.97 x 3.15 mm = 0.106 ct ea./0.318 ctw.
- Together, these 26 side stones total an estimated 1.167 ctw in addition to the 0.78 ctw of the three center turquoise stones.
- Side Stone Shape: Round cabochon
The Story:
Truly spectacular and a rare relic of the first half of the Victorian era, this brooch is as powerful in its symbolism as it is in sheer beauty. This piece is wholly sculptural, constituting three dimensional elements that are crafted nearly in the round as if a freestanding work of art. Over 180 years ago, this piece was delicately and meticulously fabricated of 14k warm yellow gold, and boasts an incredibly desirable patina that makes the gold deeper and warmer in color. This patina is a prized attribute by collectors, as it is seen as well-earned from age, a characteristic that invigorates the hand engraved details which cover the entire surface of the brooch.
This brooch conveys a sentimental message of longing and loss, and is a visual depiction of the sensitivity of a broken heart, while also existing as a tangible and wearable reminder of the promise of enduring hope. Depicted via expert craftsmanship is a billowed ribbon that appears to lightly cling to a cut tree log, seemingly swelling amid gusts atop the log. The effect is altogether dynamic and realistic, a beautiful example of “faux bois” design. Translated from French, “faux bois” means false wood, and is an art form dedicated to producing works that ornately and precisely recall genuine wood grain and the texture of timber. In 18th and 19th century jewelry, this style is often found within sentimental and mourning jewels; the fallen or prematurely cut tree symbolizes a life cut short, potential unfulfilled and affections unanswered.
The chased gold ribbon element features a sprawling stream of graduated round turquoise cabochons, which sweep the face of the ribbon in an array of ethereal blues, teals, and greens. Their placement guides the eye and complements the tonal depth of the gold. Turquoise was a preferred choice allowed during the late mourning stages, and its color was perceived as reminiscent of the Forget-Me-Not bloom. As expressed in the flower’s title, it was lovingly exchanged between lovers separated by distance, and was deeply cherished by mourners as a token by which to recall the memories of their departed.
The chasing that graces the ribbon component depicts acanthus and cyma foliate details, a historically beloved motif that has been used to honor affection and loyalty for thousands of years across many cultures. Acanthus leaves and cyma swirls represent the idea of eternalism, as the acanthus plant is known for its ability to thrive in graceful immortality, even under the harshest conditions and withstanding beating winds, rains and sun. The swirls allude to the ebbs and flows of life, its unknowns and the tenderness of the heart. Together, these engraved symbols show amaranthine devotion and fidelity that transcends time and death.
A very rare, highly ornate mourning brooch, this piece speaks to the holy dichotomy of eternal grief and also eternal hope: the horizontal log, a fallen tree inopportunely severed on both ends, represents a life lost too young, while the ribbon— activated by the breath of life— tenderly covers death to remind the wearer that in human death comes eternal life in Glory.
This brooch is an extremely rare find, as turquoise-set gold mourning jewelry of this level of detail, to this larger scale, and of this weight, are few and far between, all things considered. The hand-chased engraving that decorates the brooch’s surface from nearly all sides is exquisitely executed, and has remained remarkably crisp after all this time. It boasts an astounding amount of gold for this jewel type, and thus is a very nice weight without feeling cumbersome or heavy when worn.
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