Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket
Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket

BR299

Georgian 18k 1.08 CTW Pearl Floral Fichu Brooch with Rear Silk-Lined Locket

Regular price$895.00
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General Information:

    • Total Carat Weight: 1.08 ctw (inclusive of all pearls)
    • Precious Metal Weight: Approximately ~2.82 dwt
    • Precious Metal Material: buttery and richly patinaed 18k yellow gold; closure system is metal (once likely gilt)
    • Dimensions: 18.63 mm north to south (length) x 18.55 mm east to west (width; not including stem pin which extends past the brooch’s edge just a bit) x 7.24 mm rise (depth; not including the stem pin)
    • Weight: An impressive 4.39 grams for its scale
    • Markings: The body of the brooch contains no purity marks or hallmarks, which is not atypical for a piece of this age. However, the stem pin closure system may be an historic replacement for an original gold (which is softer than an alloy and easily bent out of commission) around 1870-1890, sometime before the turn of the century and well before this piece was procured for this shop. There appear to be no remnants of any historic hairwork or memento within the locket, rendering the locket perfectly ready for fresh use.
    • Era: We are estimating that this brooch dates to the late Georgian to early Victorian period; specifically, we estimate it to date to between 1820 and 1840 or so, as its design is similar to some archived jewels at particular European museums. However, beyond what our years of collecting, dealing, learning and refining our expertise enable us to determine, we cannot ascertain a more precise date range than this without knowing an exact provenance.
    • Buyer Notes: This brooch is a superb example of 19th century construction, symbolism, fashions and customs. It is entirely made by the hand of a jewelry artisan centuries ago, a precious treasure worthy of any collection. It may be worn exactly as is, but could also be converted to a pendant, charm or ring post-purchase if so desired by the buyer. This shop was only ever able to locate one other brooch of near exactness to this one, making it an exclusive rarity on the market. Its meaning make it all the more enthralling, though its tales of love and loss are mysteries succumbed to time.

    Specifications:

    • Center Stone Type: Cultured Pearl
    • Center Stone Count: Fifty-four (54)
    • Center Stone Dimensions (approximate estimations and measured within mountings so as to preserve the piece’s integrity): The 18 pearls of the innermost ring/at the bottom rung on each petal are ~1.3 mm; the 18 pearls of the centermost ring/at the middle rung on each petal are ~1.6 mm; and the 18 pearls of the outermost ring/at the top rung on each petal are ~1.8 mm.
    • Center Stone Carat Weight: Per the specific gravity of cultured pearls, and correlating to the three sizing categories above, the 18 1.3 mm pearls total 0.18 ctw; the 18 1.6 mm pearls total 0.36 ctw; and the 18 1.8 mm pearls total 0.54 ctw. Altogether, the 54 pearls total 1.08 ctw by formula per the specific gravity of cultured pearls (every kind of gemstone has a different s.g.).
    • Center Stone Shape: Split round cabochon, near round with some organic forms.
    • Center Stone Color: White to cream with rose, gray and ecru undertones
    • Center Stone Clarity: Good luster

    The Story:

    A masterpiece surviving from the late Georgian to early Victorian period, this c. 1820-1840 pin is a stunning sentimental jewel. With an astounding four and a half dozen cultured pearls adorning the face of the pin embedded within eighteen petals, this piece is designed as a fantastical hybrid of three flowers: a sunflower, a lotus and a mouse-ear chickweed. The pin’s back features a locket compartment that maintains its original maroon silk lining, as well as its original hand blown, hand beveled glass face. The original tube hinge and open c-clasp serve as the piece’s closure mechanism, both technologies highly characteristic of the era from which this pin hails.

    This brooch is entirely crafted by hand, each pearl carefully set within miniscule bead prongs. Every petal is clefted, coming to a pair of succinct points at their ends. If examined closely, one can also perceive interstitial petals of matching clefts placed in between the eighteen primary pearled petals. These interstitial petals are finished with an insanely fine textural surface, achieved with etched stippling to the gold material. In comparison to the outermost petals which are very refined, the resulting effect of this stippling is a ‘shadowed’ appearance, one that catches the light in a subdued, earthy way.

    The centermost disc is quite dimensional, the dome intricately engraved in medium relief by an artisan at least 180 years ago. This central region bears dozens of eight armed star forms, intended to represent florets. Each one is unique given the piece’s handmade beginnings, and under extreme magnification, the eye can trace the hand-gauged patterns that reverberate in every groove and angle. A perimeter of interlinked diamond linework borders the base of this semi-domed middle, and adds a touch of minute ornament to the already elaborate design. The pin’s age is evoked through a deep, moody patina throughout, which amplifies the jewel’s whimsical aesthetic.

    A wonderful marriage of geometricism and organicism, this brooch is forerunner to the romanticism themes that peaked during the Victorian era; the symmetrical appearance of the natural floral specimen points to man’s ‘control’ or domestication of nature. And yet, the ever so slight irregularities that come from man’s imperfection connote Mother Nature’s victory in the end. Recalling the trifecta of flowers that inspired this piece, no detail has been spared in its imaginative making.

    Historic jewelry is treasured for its artfully handmade origins and for the immense symbolism imbued in every element. This pin is an excellent example of such attentive dexterity, and relays a story just as much as it accessorizes. In particular, the use of specific flowers within jewelry conveyed messages to the wearer or receiver. In the case of this brooch, the flowers hybridized herein tell a story of sincerest affection: just as the sunflower’s face follows the warmth of the sun across the heavens, so too does the sunflower represents loyal adoration; just as the lotus bloom is slow to open and quick to close, so too does the lotus represent thoughtful love asunder; and, just as the mouse-ear chickweed roots low and heartily to the earth, so to does the chickweed represent unfussy and shrewd unity.

    When visually and metaphorically read together, the brooch can be understood as a symbol of effete love, perhaps either unrequited or cut short by death, love that was devout in its earnestness and intimately pure in intention. Such a message is befitting of a sentimental jewel, identifiable by the locket compartment to the pin’s reverse, wherein a lock of hair or other small memento would have been safeguarded literally atop the wearer’s heart. Whether intended to hold a departed loved one’s hair or a living lover, the brooch is a reminder of a bygone custom and the profundity of transcendent love.

    By placing an order, you accept and agree to uphold Revival Fine Jewelry's terms, conditions and policies.

    Regarding All Purchases: All additional 'prop' jewelry boxes, ring boxes, or any other jewelry items pictured alongside the featured listing are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless explicitly noted in the listing description and/or title. Your order will be carefully packed within a branded Revival Fine Jewelry gift box and will ship in a discreet outer shipping parcel.

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    Regarding Brooches & Pins: Often significantly and curiously undervalued jewelry items, brooches, pins and stick pins are treasured pieces of history in this shop. Accordingly, their pricing is calculated analogous to other fine jewelry, including their symbolic meaning, rarity and historical prestige. Such pieces are typically converted to other forms of jewelry, and are therefore becoming increasingly rare in their original states. Aside from being perfectly wearable as sophisticated lapel ornaments, brooches and pins of all kinds are prime candidates for many kinds of fine jewelry conversions, including rings, earrings, pendants, and charms, if so desired by the consumer post-purchase. Revival Fine Jewelry does not perform conversion projects for customers.

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