General Information:
- Total Carat Weight: 1.08 ctw (inclusive of all pearls)
- Precious Metal Weight: Approximately ~2.82 dwt
- Precious Metal Material: buttery and richly patinaed 18k yellow gold; closure system is metal (once likely gilt)
- Dimensions: 18.63 mm north to south (length) x 18.55 mm east to west (width; not including stem pin which extends past the brooch’s edge just a bit) x 7.24 mm rise (depth; not including the stem pin)
- Weight: An impressive 4.39 grams for its scale
- Markings: The body of the brooch contains no purity marks or hallmarks, which is not atypical for a piece of this age. However, the stem pin closure system may be an historic replacement for an original gold (which is softer than an alloy and easily bent out of commission) around 1870-1890, sometime before the turn of the century and well before this piece was procured for this shop. There appear to be no remnants of any historic hairwork or memento within the locket, rendering the locket perfectly ready for fresh use.
- Era: We are estimating that this brooch dates to the late Georgian to early Victorian period; specifically, we estimate it to date to between 1820 and 1840 or so, as its design is similar to some archived jewels at particular European museums. However, beyond what our years of collecting, dealing, learning and refining our expertise enable us to determine, we cannot ascertain a more precise date range than this without knowing an exact provenance.
- Buyer Notes: This brooch is a superb example of 19th century construction, symbolism, fashions and customs. It is entirely made by the hand of a jewelry artisan centuries ago, a precious treasure worthy of any collection. It may be worn exactly as is, but could also be converted to a pendant, charm or ring post-purchase if so desired by the buyer. This shop was only ever able to locate one other brooch of near exactness to this one, making it an exclusive rarity on the market. Its meaning make it all the more enthralling, though its tales of love and loss are mysteries succumbed to time.
Specifications:
- Center Stone Type: Cultured Pearl
- Center Stone Count: Fifty-four (54)
- Center Stone Dimensions (approximate estimations and measured within mountings so as to preserve the piece’s integrity): The 18 pearls of the innermost ring/at the bottom rung on each petal are ~1.3 mm; the 18 pearls of the centermost ring/at the middle rung on each petal are ~1.6 mm; and the 18 pearls of the outermost ring/at the top rung on each petal are ~1.8 mm.
- Center Stone Carat Weight: Per the specific gravity of cultured pearls, and correlating to the three sizing categories above, the 18 1.3 mm pearls total 0.18 ctw; the 18 1.6 mm pearls total 0.36 ctw; and the 18 1.8 mm pearls total 0.54 ctw. Altogether, the 54 pearls total 1.08 ctw by formula per the specific gravity of cultured pearls (every kind of gemstone has a different s.g.).
- Center Stone Shape: Split round cabochon, near round with some organic forms.
- Center Stone Color: White to cream with rose, gray and ecru undertones
- Center Stone Clarity: Good luster
The Story:
A masterpiece surviving from the late Georgian to early Victorian period, this c. 1820-1840 pin is a stunning sentimental jewel. With an astounding four and a half dozen cultured pearls adorning the face of the pin embedded within eighteen petals, this piece is designed as a fantastical hybrid of three flowers: a sunflower, a lotus and a mouse-ear chickweed. The pin’s back features a locket compartment that maintains its original maroon silk lining, as well as its original hand blown, hand beveled glass face. The original tube hinge and open c-clasp serve as the piece’s closure mechanism, both technologies highly characteristic of the era from which this pin hails.
This brooch is entirely crafted by hand, each pearl carefully set within miniscule bead prongs. Every petal is clefted, coming to a pair of succinct points at their ends. If examined closely, one can also perceive interstitial petals of matching clefts placed in between the eighteen primary pearled petals. These interstitial petals are finished with an insanely fine textural surface, achieved with etched stippling to the gold material. In comparison to the outermost petals which are very refined, the resulting effect of this stippling is a ‘shadowed’ appearance, one that catches the light in a subdued, earthy way.
The centermost disc is quite dimensional, the dome intricately engraved in medium relief by an artisan at least 180 years ago. This central region bears dozens of eight armed star forms, intended to represent florets. Each one is unique given the piece’s handmade beginnings, and under extreme magnification, the eye can trace the hand-gauged patterns that reverberate in every groove and angle. A perimeter of interlinked diamond linework borders the base of this semi-domed middle, and adds a touch of minute ornament to the already elaborate design. The pin’s age is evoked through a deep, moody patina throughout, which amplifies the jewel’s whimsical aesthetic.
A wonderful marriage of geometricism and organicism, this brooch is forerunner to the romanticism themes that peaked during the Victorian era; the symmetrical appearance of the natural floral specimen points to man’s ‘control’ or domestication of nature. And yet, the ever so slight irregularities that come from man’s imperfection connote Mother Nature’s victory in the end. Recalling the trifecta of flowers that inspired this piece, no detail has been spared in its imaginative making.
Historic jewelry is treasured for its artfully handmade origins and for the immense symbolism imbued in every element. This pin is an excellent example of such attentive dexterity, and relays a story just as much as it accessorizes. In particular, the use of specific flowers within jewelry conveyed messages to the wearer or receiver. In the case of this brooch, the flowers hybridized herein tell a story of sincerest affection: just as the sunflower’s face follows the warmth of the sun across the heavens, so too does the sunflower represents loyal adoration; just as the lotus bloom is slow to open and quick to close, so too does the lotus represent thoughtful love asunder; and, just as the mouse-ear chickweed roots low and heartily to the earth, so to does the chickweed represent unfussy and shrewd unity.
When visually and metaphorically read together, the brooch can be understood as a symbol of effete love, perhaps either unrequited or cut short by death, love that was devout in its earnestness and intimately pure in intention. Such a message is befitting of a sentimental jewel, identifiable by the locket compartment to the pin’s reverse, wherein a lock of hair or other small memento would have been safeguarded literally atop the wearer’s heart. Whether intended to hold a departed loved one’s hair or a living lover, the brooch is a reminder of a bygone custom and the profundity of transcendent love.
By placing an order, you accept and agree to uphold all of Revival Fine Jewelry's terms, conditions and policies.
General Information: All additional jewelry boxes, ring boxes, and other jewelry items pictured alongside a featured listing are considered props, are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless otherwise noted. Items do not come with physical documentation, appraisals, or certifications, unless explicitly stated in the item description and/or title. While jewelry is inspected upon procurement by the shop as well as prior to shipment, Revival Fine Jewelry cannot guarantee a warranty once items leave our inventory, given the delicate and individual nature of secondhand articles and the unaccountability of buyer handling post-purchase.
Shipping: All orders are carefully packed within a branded Revival Fine Jewelry gift box, secured with recycled materials when possible, and shipped within a discreet outer shipping parcel. All orders ship with tracking, insurance and signature confirmation. Shipping options are presented at checkout. Per law and inegrity, international orders are always marked as commodity imports and customers are responsible for any and all customs expenses, VAT taxes and import fees, as well as any clearance costs legally dictated by their respective destination countries. These expenses are not calculated into the pricing structure, and returns based on import costs will not be permitted.
Returns: While Revival Fine Jewelry aims to provide a smooth experience from start to finish, customers are encouraged to reach out regarding any issue or dissatisfaction, so that we may work together toward a resolution. If a return is desired, the shop must be notified of an intention to return within 3 days of confirmed delivery, and item(s) must be shipped back to the shop within 7 days of confirmed delivery. All materials (gift box, inserts, cards) must be returned with the item(s). Returns declared after the 3 day window and/or postmarked after 7 days of receipt will neither be accepted nor refunded. Customers are responsible for generating an insured return shipping label (international customers included) and relaying the tracking information to Revival Fine Jewelry. Returns that do not include full insurance and/or tracking, and are damaged or lost in transit, will not be refunded. If a return is accepted, customers will be refunded less the original cost of shipping, handling and insurance, the expense of any damages incurred, and a 10% restocking fee (of the original purchase price). All sale items, items altered or resized by the buyer post-purchase, and all storage/ boxes are considered final sale and are ineligible for a return or refund.
Sale Terms: Sale prices are only valid within the prescribed sale window, unless otherwise stated by Revival Fine Jewelry or agreed upon between Revival Fine Jewelry and a designated customer. To maintain business sustainability and general fairness, individual customers are not entitled to exclusive notification of, or owed access to, store sales antecedently. Orders processed prior to a promotion or sale, items placed on layaway prior to a sale, and payments paid through layaway prior to a sale will not be retroactively adjusted to reflect sale pricing or terms.
Specially Negotiated Deals: Items purchased at specially negotiated discounts, deals or prices through any platform between Revival Fine Jewelry and a designated customer are considered final sale, including rates arranged and agreed upon via Facebook, Instagram, email or any other method. Closing deals at special rates reflects a desire by both parties to reach an expeditious and absolute sale. The intention of specially negotiated discounts, deals or sale prices through any platform between Revival Fine Jewelry and a designated customer, is to eliminate extra expenses and/or use of time and resources to formally list or re-list items per their specific and inherent value-determining qualities, as well as avoid unseen overhead business costs, stocking obligations, and all other disclosed or undisclosed monetary and nonmonetary expenditures.
Pricing: Revival Fine Jewelry reserves the right to decrease, increase, alter and modify inventory pricing to meet market rarity, demand or value; to offset platform, transaction or seller's fees; to adapt to economic inflation and fluctuation; and to defray specific business expenses. Pricing is the sole discretion of every small business.
Regarding Brooches & Pins: Often significantly and curiously undervalued jewelry items, brooches, pins and stick pins are treasured pieces of history in this shop. Accordingly, their pricing is calculated analogous to other fine jewelry, including their symbolic meaning, rarity and historical prestige. Such pieces are typically converted to other forms of jewelry, and are therefore becoming increasingly rare in their original states. Aside from being perfectly wearable as sophisticated lapel ornaments, brooches and pins of all kinds are prime candidates for many kinds of fine jewelry conversions, including rings, earrings, pendants, and charms, if so desired by the consumer post-purchase. Revival Fine Jewelry does not perform conversion projects for customers.
Regarding Storage & Boxes: All specifications, including but not limited to the measurements, age, origins, and material compositions are supplied in good faith as professional estimations constructed using professional grade tools, years of learned and honed skills, educational resources and academic scholarship, and refined research methods. Regardless of our confidence in our descriptions and the photographs deemed viable extensions of these descriptions, we cannot guarantee the definitiveness, faultlessness, or exactitude beyond our knowledge and expertise. Kindly keep in mind that this and all items are sold as-is vintage, antique and estate secondhand wares, and consequently bear conditional wear in matter and operation commensurate with age and use.
More information on these, and more, topics may be found in the shop policies.
All layaway terms may be found here, and all shop policies may be found here.
Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.
In exchange for offering interest-free plans, customers agree to abide and uphold the following nonnegotiable terms and conditions:
- A 30% deposit is due upfront to reserve the item for layaway and pull it from public sale on all of our shopping platforms. Shipping expenses are added to this first payment unless otherwise requested.
- The remaining 70% balance is divided up into three subsequent monthly payments due on the same day of the following three months. If delinquent, a $20.00 USD late fee is added per day to an overdue payment until paid.
- In the event that a layaway installment is left unpaid for seven (7) days and no communication is received from the designated customer, the layaway plan will be presumed abandoned. While the item will be returned to public sale, all payments made hitherto are still considered final.
Layaway items are promptly boxed and shipped to the designated customer once the final payment successfully processes. Taxes, import and other legal fees are not calculated into the payments, and are the sole responsibility of the customer, whether a domestic US or international buyer. Revival Fine Jewelry is not responsible for calculating, covering or adding such costs into purchase prices.
All layaway payments as well as all items purchased through layaway plans are considered final sale; neither payments nor items may be refunded, transferred, exchanged or returned. Revival Fine Jewelry does not issue store credit.
Revival Fine Jewelry reserves the right to cancel any layaway plan at any point for any reason if fraudulent activity is suspected. In this event, the designated customer will be notified prior to the intended cancellation of their plan.
Request a layaway plan via email here. Remember to specify your desired item by providing its link, title or SKU/code.