Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings
Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings

EA116

Mid Victorian 14k Seed Pearl Crescent & Clover Motif Crown-Set Dormeuse Earrings

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General Information:

  • Precious Metal Weight: Approx. 1.55 dwt
  • Precious Metal Material: 14k Yellow Gold
  • Dimensions: 18.5 x 12.0-12.4 mm overall; 5.0-5.5 mm depths; ~12.0 mm approx. drop from lobe
  • Weight: 2.42 grams together
  • Markings: None
  • Era: Est. c. 1840-1860 (some aspects indicate one date range, while others indicate a later period)
  • Buyer Notes: This pair of earrings is a very rare set, likely custom made as a gift, created by the hands of an expert jeweler. To our knowledge, they bear all original components, including their original ear wires, and do not appear to have had any pearls replaced. The dainty goldwork has remained beautifully intact, their wires are slim and comfortable, and they are both light as a feather to wear. Please note that the base of one of the ear wires was re-soldered to its decorative basket at some point in its history, as pictured. You may see that the gold is a bit excessive where this repair was made, leaving some darker solder on the interior of that basket setting. Though visible upon close inspection, this trait is not at all visible when worn due to the depth and design of the earrings. Though perfectly commensurate with age, the price has been set to fairly reflect the presence of this quality.

Specifications:

  • Center Stone Type: Pearls
  • Center Stone Count: Twenty-Four (24) total
  • Center Stone Dimensions: 1.0 to 2.0 mm ea. (largest set in the shamrock shapes)
  • Center Stone Shape: Halved & Semi
  • Center Stone Color: White-Cream to very Light Warm Gray-Champagne

The Story:

Meticulously crafted by hand in the 19th century, these earrings are modeled in rich 14k yellow gold and encrusted with a robust spread of lustrous pearls. Each earring is complete with a three-leaf stemmed shamrock, each leaf studded with a pearl and dimpled at its end, thus forming a trio of heart pearled shapes. These shamrocks are affixed to the earrings only on their top leaf, causing them to seemingly ‘float’ within the opening of the jewel. Even their curved stems appear to delicately billow within the open space. As a halo above both shamrocks is a crescent moon made of dainty pearls, articulated with shared, bead-set prongs. A grouping of three raised gold roundels trails the endpoints of the crescent contours so as to allude to the ethereal nature of the moon. These endpoints, then, continue and connect to complete the circular face of the earring.

Although minimally-dropped earrings of this fashion were worn during previous period, they became most popular during the Victorian era: this style earring is a variety of dormeuse earrings, or colloquially known as ‘sleeper’ earrings, worn most prevalently during Queen Victoria’s mourning period, during which time hairstyles covered the ears and precluded the adornment of earrings during daytime hours. As such, dormeuse earrings were created for women to wear at nighttime, originally made very simply, with a single diamond or gem that hung from a hoop or latch close to the lobe. Ladies would wear them while sleeping so as to keep their pierced lobes from closing, a risk presented by the lack of daytime earring wear. Over time, this style grew to be worn for daytime wear as well, with more elaborate designs made for evening wear. 

This pair stands apart from other earrings from this period, in that it is composed of characteristics that were designed and beloved in disparate eras: the front-closing latch, in which the ear wire secured within a small loop or tube, was an invention of the late Georgian era, just after the turn of the 18th to19th century. Likewise, the fastening technique used for the central pearls on these earrings-- wherein a small peg or brad secures the gems to a flat surface mounting-- also primarily dates to the late 1700s through mid 1800s. 

On the other hand, the pierced linear basket setting of the overall earring is one that appears to be of Mid Victorian origins, somewhat curious in light of the Georgian traits of the pair. Furthermore, the actual motif of the shamrock and the crescent moon are Mid to Late Victorian in design, as these were the influences of broader world travel by the rising middle class, and increased trade with the Middle East. As Victorians had an affection for symbolism, their jewels depicted very meaningful messages through themes and imagery, using ‘foreign’ cultural subjects to represent lessons and blessings alike:

The shamrock is a well known symbol for good fortune, though when designed with three leaves, it also conveyed loyalty, amiability, integrity, muliebrity and fecundity. Additionally, St. Patrick believed it as a metaphor for the mystery of the Holy Trinity, in which God is also Spirit and Christ, a perfect triune that shows God as a father, God as a son, sacrifice and atoner, and God as a living essence indwelling in all human beings. These combined symbolisms cascade from these earrings, as the shamrocks’ leaves form trios of hearts. As well, pearls are believed to be protective amulets, guarding the wearer from harm and suffering, while also bestowing grace and honor to the wearer. Lastly, the crescent shape expresses the ephemerality of life, the waning and waxing and ebbs and flows; it reminds the wearer of life’s fragility while also encouraging the life-giving relationship with the Divine, as the cyclical nature of life is, itself, a story of ceaseless and promised redemption. 

In summation, these earrings were far more valuable to their original owner than for the sake of mere precious materials and vanity; these earrings relayed messages of God’s promise and protection to the wearer, and inspired conscious living and faithful loving. Every bit of these earrings masterfully articulate their maker’s skills and the Maker’s eternal affection for people. Through gold and pearls, a complex message is proudly shared, and a poignant period in history is recalled. These are a true treasure of an unparalleled time in jewelry antiquity, and are as collectible as they are wearable.

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