Late Victorian 18-22k 0.29 CTW Old European Cut Diamond Band with Foliate Motif

 General Information:

• US Size: 7.75
• Total Carat Weight: Estimated 0.29 ctw
• Total Precious Metal Weight: 2.21 dwt
• Precious Metal Material: Procured as 18k, but tests on our purity tester as between 18-22k yellow gold
• Dimensions: 8.35 mm north to south on the ring face; ~2.20 mm rise from the finger (depth) at the highest diamond table but the gold mounting itself has only a 1.60 mm rise from the finger (deep); shoulders taper from ~2.80 mm to 1.75 mm at the base of the shank.
• Weight: An super comfortable 3.44 g
• Markings: A mostly worn maker’s mark (N P or B P [?]) within a depressed rectangular cartouche precedes a series of numbers individually stamped “5 0 6 7” (the last digit is somewhat obscured) on one side of the shank’s interior. The other side shows a ghost mark of a long-lost stamp. 
• Era: This ring matches US and UK based jeweler’s catalogs from 1880 to the 1890s, informing our estimated date of 1880-1890. Even though we suggest these findings from our years of honed expertise, identification techniques and extensive professional research, it must be noted that without knowing an exact provenance, we cannot conclusively determine this ring’s exact timeline or its precise origins. 
• Buyer Notes: This ring is a superb example of late Victorian jewelry design, fabricated in high purity gold and encrusted with high quality diamonds. Its simple aesthetic maintains a crispness and clarity despite being affectionately enjoyed for up to about 140 years. It is smooth and notably comfortable to wear, just heavy enough to remind the wearer of the ring’s presence, but not so heavy that it is clunky. Indeed, this ring is a fabulous find, a relic of an iconic era, opulent in its constitution and sophisticated in both a stack and flying solo.

Specifications:

• Center Stone Type: Diamond
• Center Stone Count: Five (5)
• Center Stone Dimensions: 1.79 x 1.57 x 1.21 mm; 2.44 x 2.23 x 2.02 mm; 2.75 x 2.63 x 2.00 mm; 2.27 x 2.31 x 1.93 mm; 1.74 x 1.52 x 1.34 mm
• Center Stone Carat Weight: By formula and in coordination with the above dimensions, 0.025 ct; 0.072 ct; 0.096 ct; 0.079 ct; 0.022 ct; total together = 0.29 ctw
• Center Stone Shape: Old European cut (with open culets and tall crowns)
• Center Stone Color: F-G
• Center Stone Clarity: VS2

The Story:

Whimsical and utterly romantic, this diamond ring is a superior relic of the late Victorian era. Based on period jewelry catalogs by famed US and UK based goldsmiths and jewelry houses, this ring dates to between 1880 and 1890, likely just before the turn of the century. It boasts a crisp, alluringly simplistic and practical design that slides on like butter and hugs the finger in ultimate low-profile comfort. The face of the ring is something of a take on the bypass style ring, which itself is a variation of the toi et moi style ring.

Both of these iconic styles are recognized by the way that their stones are set: usually at an angle, the featured gems are made to appear as if they are ‘embracing’, a distinct jewelry style that was first introduced when Napoleon Bonaparte proposed to Josephine de Beauharnais in 1796. Their rather scandalous engagement is remembered most by the inseparable passion of the couple, as so conveyed in the design of Josephine’s engagement ring. Toi et mois and their bypass derivatives represent ‘you and me’, as the French translation goes, and is symbolic of unity and partnered hearts. The present Victorian ring exhibits a magical modification to this aforementioned side swept design, and displays five stones rather than two, a sum that rose to popularity (along with seven stone rings) during this transitional period into the 20th century. 

The marquise shape of the mounting hearkens to silhouettes found in nature, and almost feels like a leaf unfurling to reveal an arrangement of diamonds like dew drops. Continuing this motif to the shoulders, a pair of doubled swirls burst unwind their tendrils to frame the marquise mount, both sides finished with a single leaf shaped finial. The effect is one of enchanting playfulness, with Mother Nature as its muse. Truly reflective of the evolving designs of the era, one can perceive the forward-looking leanings toward Edwardian femininity as well as the strong geometries of the subsequent Art Deco movement.

Perhaps most captivating of all is the shared exceptional quality of the diamonds herein, each one F-G in color and VS2 in clarity, causing this spread to be wildly sparkling and very bright white against the butteriness of the gold setting. These diamonds were composed to taper from end to end, the largest of the five stones set in the middle. The diamonds were cut, faceted and polished by hand over 130 years ago, and are beautifully crafted. The facet joints are relatively clean and the diamonds each explode in height, with desirably tall crowns that soar above the height of the ring face. Their scale also allows light to dance in and through the stones to amplify their sparkle.

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General Information: All additional jewelry boxes, ring boxes, and other jewelry items pictured alongside a featured listing are considered props, are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless otherwise noted. Items do not come with physical documentation, appraisals, or certifications, unless explicitly stated in the item description and/or title. While jewelry is inspected upon procurement by the shop as well as prior to shipment, Revival Fine Jewelry cannot guarantee a warranty once items leave our inventory, given the delicate and individual nature of secondhand articles and the unaccountability of buyer handling post-purchase.

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All layaway terms may be found here, and all shop policies may be found here.

Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.

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• A 30% deposit is due upfront to reserve the item for layaway and pull it from public sale on all of our shopping platforms. Shipping expenses are added to this first payment unless otherwise requested.
• The remaining 70% balance is divided up into three subsequent monthly payments due on the same day of the following three months. If delinquent, a $20.00 USD late fee is added per day to an overdue payment until paid.
• In the event that a layaway installment is left unpaid for seven (7) days and no communication is received from the designated customer, the layaway plan will be presumed abandoned. While the item will be returned to public sale, all payments made hitherto are still considered final.

Layaway items are promptly boxed and shipped to the designated customer once the final payment successfully processes. Taxes, import and other legal fees are not calculated into the payments, and are the sole responsibility of the customer, whether a domestic US or international buyer. Revival Fine Jewelry is not responsible for calculating, covering or adding such costs into purchase prices.

All layaway payments as well as all items purchased through layaway plans are considered final sale; neither payments nor items may be refunded, transferred, exchanged or returned. Revival Fine Jewelry does not issue store credit.

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Request a layaway plan via email here. Remember to specify your desired item by providing its link, title or SKU/code.