General Information:
- US Size: 7.00
- Total Carat Weight: 7.00 ctw
- Precious Metal Weight: Est. 3.00-3.50 dwt
- Precious Metal Material: 10k rose gold/rosy yellow gold
- Dimensions: 17.62 face width (north to south); 8.99 mm face depth (rise from the finger); band tapers from 7.81 mm at the shoulders to 3.40 mm at the base of the shank.
- Weight: A comfortable and delightfully weighty 5.66 grams
- Markings: An extremely tiny 1.70 x 0.60 mm maker’s mark stamped to the interior of the ring, unquestionably identified as that of Shafer & Douglas of Newark, New Jersey. S&D was founded in 1855, and when Douglas passed in 1899, the jewelry house was taken over by Shafer’s son, at which time the production of all jewelry items other than rings ceased.
- Era: Given the maker’s history, we can date the ring to between 1855-1899, and after examining the mounting style and construction (which dates to between 1870-1900), the maker’s mark (which dates to between 1855-1899 according to the jeweler’s archives), and the amethyst’s faceting which matches gemstones dating to c. 1880 in the Victoria & Albert Museum archives, all assist in our ability to specify a likely date range of 1870-1880.
- Buyer Notes: This ring is a classic Victorian style, and would have been a staple to the Victorian woman’s jewelry box. It bears wonderful height and weight, and shows one of the most memorable colorations we have had the privilege of seeing come through our shop. Together with the ring's bold presence on the finger, its rose gold mounting and the amethyst’s lighter purple color, this piece is a true show-stopper!
Specifications:
- Center Stone Type: Natural Amethyst
- Center Stone Count: One (1)
- Center Stone Carat Weight: By formula, 7.00 ct
- Center Stone Dimensions: 15.52 x 11.23 x 8.05 mm (measured within mount)
- Center Stone Shape: Oval Faceted Cut
- Center Stone Color: Light to medium purple, possibly “Rose de France” with a very subtle band of lighter color in the center (please read description in full for details on this, and reference all the photos on our website for color character)
- Center Stone Clarity: Translucent to nearly transparent at the center; no inclusions visible to the naked eye or under a jeweler’s loupe
The Story:
Royally elegant in color and expression, this hefty antique ring dates to the last quarter of the 19th century, sometime between 1870 and 1890. Its simplicity is a pure work of art, and features a style that was en vogue during these last decades of the century. Six geometric claw prongs clutch a prominent amethyst gemstone in dramatic fashion, while the opulent mount raises the centerpiece to a soaring height above the finger. The gold setting is crafted in 10k rose gold that bears a sultry patina earned over its century and a half lifetime. Ever so cleverly, the warm hue of the gemstone enlivens the pinkish undertones of the gold.
The centered amethyst is certainly unique amongst the amethysts we have had in stock before, as it shows the greatest saturation at its north and south ends, almost revealing a horizontal band across its center that boasts an ever so subtly less saturated purple hue. Because the stone is extremely translucent, its clarity nearly borders on transparency across this center band. Perhaps it is this increase in transparency in this middle section that gives an illusion of lighter color.
In any case, the purple color lightens toward the center of the amethyst, also encouraging the rose gold shank to peek through the stone and imitate the “flash” of orangey color that the ever elusive color-change sapphires display. As pictured, the clarity, amethyst color and rose gold mount all work harmoniously to show a vivid, unusual and chameleon effect of color throughout the ring, from all angles and in all lights.
Technically, the color of this gem might be classified as the highly sought after “Rose de France” amethyst, which is a difficult to define type and debated amongst gemologists and jewelers alike. Often, these variations show a pinkish undertone and a lilac to light purple color (caused by a lower iron molecular content). The rarest of purple amethysts are dichroic, meaning they show dual colorations throughout. Arguably, this gemstone shows just that: deeper lavender on both ends, with a paler variation at its center. This noteworthy characteristic is shown in the photographs from varying angles.
A majestic and sensuous detail, the six pointed rose gold claws wrap over the crown of the amethyst and are designed to be as interesting to the face of the ring as the stone itself. These prongs extend downward affixed atop the bezel-like basket in which the amethyst sits. The ring’s shoulders exhibit a soft tapering slope, which is a very delicate quality of rings of this period. Indeed, it is reminiscent of the classic late Victorian engagement ring mounting produced by the famed Tiffany & Co., thrusting this style mounting into the desirable spotlight for centuries.
Amethyst has long been beloved for its illustrative symbolism. Since ancient times, amethyst has been believed to keep its wearer clear minded and quick-witted, and according to Greek myth, is thought to be a preventative of drunkenness when kept in the mouth or on the body while drinking. It is the February birthstone, and was once considered just as valuable as the sapphire, ruby and emeralds alike. For thousands of years, it has been worn by royalty around the globe, and has numerous Biblical references for its divine associations.
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