General Information:
- Length: 18 inches
- Total Carat Weight: Estimated by formula, 0.55 ctw
- Precious Metal Weight: Approx. 1.58 dwt
- Precious Metal Material: Tests for 14-16k rose gold
- Dimensions: 18” actual necklace length from end to end when unclasped, including the spring ring and bolt rings; chain links measure less than 0.50 mm each. The pendant is 9.42 mm north to south x 9.33 mm east to west x 7.69 mm deep/tall.
- Weight: 2.45 grams
- Markings: AU 585, 585, FBH (chain manufacturer)
- Era: The pendant is a conversion piece, as the diamond pendant began life as one kind of jewel (likely an earring) and has been converted to be a pendant. It is strung on a more contemporary rosy chain. The pendant is estimated to date from between 1780-1820, though it could actually be early to mid Victorian. Without knowing an exact provenance, we cannot ascertain a more precise date beyond what our years of collecting, dealing, learning and refining our expertise enables us to determine.
- Buyer Notes: A striking necklace indeed, this piece consists of an antique foiled diamond pendant and a contemporary chain. What makes the pendant so unusual and even more extraordinary is that the diamonds are set within rose gold rather than solid sterling silver, which would have been far more standard for this period. We have opted to leave this piece exactly as procured, and have not buffed or polished the materials, as the time-earned patina present on this necklace is a highly desirable feature valued by collectors of historic jewels. This piece is sold as a necklace, chain included.
Specifications:
- Center Stone Type: Diamond
- Center Stone Count: One (1)
- Center Stone Dimensions: Approx. 3.95 x 3.94 x 1.93 mm (measured within mount so as to preserve integrity)
- Center Stone Carat Weight: By formula, approx. 0.25 ct
- Center Stone Shape: Modified antique rose cut
- Side Stone Type: Diamond
- Side Stone Count: Twelve (12)
- Side Stone Dimensions: On average, 1.6 x 1.8 x 1.0 mm (measured within mount so as to preserve integrity)
- Side Stone Carat Weight: By formula, on average approx. 0.30 ctw/ 0.025 ct ea.
- Side Stone Shape: Modified antique rose cut
The Story:
Utterly captivating, this antique diamond cluster originates from the late Georgian to early Victorian years, sometime between approximately 1780 and 1820. It began its life as another adornment, likely one of a pair of earrings, and at some point in its history, was lovingly converted to the pendant we behold today. Being that it is up to 240 or so years old, the diamonds within boast the charming imperfections and variances of hand cut, hand faceted and hand finished techniques. Each one is singular in shape and proportions, their peaks and silhouettes characteristically angular and diverse.
When flipped to its reverse, we can see that these diamonds are all closed backed, which was a standard practice during this period, and continued to be implemented within jewelry-making even up to the turn of the 20th century. When diamonds and gemstones are closed backed, they are almost always also foiled on their reverse, wherein a thin sheet of silver or colored foil was slipped between the back of the diamonds and the precious metal backing.
Both the faceting matrix of the Rose Cut and the use of foiling were techniques designed specifically to catch the twinkle of candlelight, as they worked in tandem to catch the low light and reflect within the body of the stones. The metallic nature of both characteristics ethereally shoot light across and out of the stones, which visually saturates the jewel with a spectrum of moody earth tones. With today’s hygiene and day-to-day active lifestyles, we must keep in mind that foiled jewelry cannot get damp or wet, less the foiling dissolve or tarnish.
The central diamond as well as all twelve of the diamonds that halo it are set using a historic setting method called a pinch collet mounting, in which the diamonds are held using a technique that is rather the intersection of prongs and bezels: the precious metal material wraps over the girdles and is pie-pinched to seal them in place. The effect is an undulating one, which draws the eye and emphasizes the angularity of the diamonds.
Yet, the beauty of this pendant is not limited to its face, as its profile is equally impressive. Elevating the diamond face in majestic elegance, a pierced scalloped fretwork platforms the piece like a crown. On the reverse, evidence of the piece’s former life as an alternative accessory can be seen. As it exists today, an ever delicate gold (stamped) 18-inch chain has been strung through the gallery for enjoyment as a necklace.
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General Information: All additional jewelry boxes, ring boxes, and other jewelry items pictured alongside a featured listing are considered props, are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless otherwise noted. Items do not come with physical documentation, appraisals, or certifications, unless explicitly stated in the item description and/or title. While jewelry is inspected upon procurement by the shop as well as prior to shipment, Revival Fine Jewelry cannot guarantee a warranty once items leave our inventory, given the delicate and individual nature of secondhand articles and the unaccountability of buyer handling post-purchase.
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Regarding Brooches & Pins: Often significantly and curiously undervalued jewelry items, brooches, pins and stick pins are treasured pieces of history in this shop. Accordingly, their pricing is calculated analogous to other fine jewelry, including their symbolic meaning, rarity and historical prestige. Such pieces are typically converted to other forms of jewelry, and are therefore becoming increasingly rare in their original states. Aside from being perfectly wearable as sophisticated lapel ornaments, brooches and pins of all kinds are prime candidates for many kinds of fine jewelry conversions, including rings, earrings, pendants, and charms, if so desired by the consumer post-purchase. Revival Fine Jewelry does not perform conversion projects for customers.
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All layaway terms may be found here, and all shop policies may be found here.
Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.
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