Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s
Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s

BR627

Georgian 13g Silver 4.33 CTW Rose Cut Diamond & Opal Giardinetti Bodice Brooch, circa 1740s-1770s

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  • Unique find! Only 1 available.

  • Shopping pre-owned is choosing sustainable luxury
  • One-of-a-kind item exclusively curated for you
  • Ships with full insurance + signature confirmation

General Information:

  • Total Carat Weight: 4.33 ctw
  • Precious Metal Weight: 0.418 ozt
  • Precious Metal Material: Silver; likely 0.835-0.925
  • Dimensions: 52.84 x 32.13 x 13.35 mm (2.08 x 1.26 x 0.53 inches)
  • Weight: An exact and impressive 13.00 grams
  • Markings: Unmarked, which is typical and to be expected of this era
  • Era: The primary brooch began life as either a stomacher component or bodice ornament, and dates to between the 1740s and most likely the 1770s, although it is possible that it dates as late as 1800. The central opal component is a 19th or 20th century historic addition, replacing another, original Rose Cut diamond centerpiece that is now lost to time. The brooch fitting to the reverse dates to circa 1915-1920, and was affixed to make the jewel more fashionably wearable in keeping with the times. 

Specifications:

  • Center Stone Type: Opal
  • Center Stone Count: One (1)
  • Center Stone Dimensions: Approximately 8.50 x 8.70 mm, measured within mounting as setting permits
  • Center Carat Weight: 1.82 ct by formula per the specific gravity of opal
  • Center Stone Shape: Circular Cabochon Cut
  • Center Stone Color: Light to sky blue body color with wonderful color play; flashes of vivid teal, violet, lime green and light yellow-orange with orange-peach glow when backlit
  • Center Stone Clarity: Vitreous, semi-translucent
  • Center Stone Notes: Please kindly note that the opal is a later addition to the piece, and appears to have crazing or a hairline visible to the reverse. The shop sought separate expert opinions on this opal's origins: one stated that it is a lab grown opal, and the other stated that it is natural. Both grown and naturally occuring opals are identical in their chemical composition and atomic makeup. Lab opals may be more porous with lower density, though are produced under the ideal conditions and care of scientific innovation.
  • Side Stone Type: Diamond
  • Side Stone Count: Thirty-Five (35)
  • Side Stone Dimensions and Carat Weights: All diamonds total 2.51 ctw and range in size from 0.82 mm to  5.53 mm; see breakdown below:
  1. 5.02 x 4.15 mm = 0.19 ct
  2. 4.26 x 4.25 mm = 0.22 ct
  3. 4.90 x 4.19 mm = 0.27 ct
  4. 4.50 x 4.08 mm = 0.22 ct
  5. 4.80 x 4.02 mm = 0.20 ct
  6. 5.32 x 4.76 mm = 0.32 ct
  7. 4.05 x 2.91 mm = 0.12 ct
  8. 5.32 x 4.11 mm = 0.20 ct
  9. 5.53 x 3.65 mm = 0.20 ct 
  10. 3.67 x 2.83 mm = 0.12 ct
  11. 2.29 x 1.78 mm = 0.05 ct
  12. 2.05 x 1.48 mm = 0.03 ct
  13. 1.88 x 1.72 mm = 0.03 ct
  14. 2.08 x 1.82 mm = 0.04 ct
  15. 1.52 x 1.20 mm = 0.02 ct
  16. 1.56 x 1.35 mm = 0.02 ct
  17. 1.46 x 1.15 mm = 0.01 ct
  18. 1.40 x 1.12 mm = 0.01 ct
  19. 1.80 x 1.37 mm = 0.02 ct
  20. 1.46 x 1.08 mm = 0.01 ct
  21. 1.25 x 1.13 mm = 0.01 ct
  22. 1.30 x 1.10 mm = 0.01 ct
  23. 1.15 x 0.96 mm = 0.01 ct
  24. 1.50 x 1.30 mm = 0.02 ct
  25. 1.20 x 1.10 mm = 0.01 ct
  26. 1.65 x 1.60 mm = 0.02 ct
  27. 1.93 x 1.63 mm = 0.02 ct
  28. 1.32 x 1.16 mm = 0.01 ct
  29. 1.39 x 0.82 mm = 0.01 ct
  30. 1.79 x 1.55 mm = 0.02 ct
  31. 1.19 x 1.18 mm = 0.01 ct
  32. 1.15 x 1.01 mm = 0.01 ct
  33. 1.61 x 1.50 mm = 0.02 ct
  34. 1.90 x 1.30 mm = 0.02 ct
  35. 1.57 x 1.26 mm = 0.01 ct
  • Side Stone Shape: Circular, Oval and Modified Pear Rose Cut to Senaille Cut 
  • Side Stone Color and Clarity: Impossible to accurately determine given the closed back and foiled settings of the diamonds. However, no carbon inclusions are visible to the eye or under 10x magnification. All diamonds produce a warm, patinaed chromatic effect, varying in depth depending on size and faceting style.

      The Story:

      Remarkable in beauty and singularity, this historic jewel is over 270 years old, hails from 18th century Western Europe, and is a relatively rare survivor of its type currently available on the market. Whips and whorls of stylized blooms, elongated leaves and budding flora comprise the body of the piece, which is crafted entirely in silver and outfitted with three dozen gems. The spread of hand cut diamonds are mounted within a mix of crimped, cut-down collets and burnished, rub-over settings, their pinched prongs drawing the eye inward to highlight the diamonds' visual depth. The piece's silver composition and the traces of gold wash to its reverse, as well as its more substantial silhouette altogether indicate that it is presumed German in origin, possibly Flemish; French variants were typically high karat gold, while Italian and Iberian variants featured less precise rub-over gemstone settings.

      Embodying the intersection of both Baroque and Rococo tenets, this piece illustrates an interesting dichotomy of control and release. Baroque design was influenced by Neoclassical values, and evolved as something of a spatio-experiential and aesthetic representation of the Church's unrelenting authority over all areas of politics and culture. Yet, scientific breakthroughs were occurring, the abundance of aristocratic life dominated top tastes, and as such, Baroque design displayed an unbalanced marriage of Neoclassical power and order to exaggerated dynamism celebrating the sensuousness of secular living. The Baroque aesthetic emphasized ensemblematic clustering of elements, an intentional departure from the rigid structure of Neoclassicism. Likewise, Baroque design prized the artful and invitational drama produced by lighting, color and lively views and changing vistas.

      Evolving further from Baroque design was High Baroque, or Rococo design. While similar to Baroque in many respects, Rococo may be identified by an even more pronounced rejection of the regimented aestheticism of the Church and Neoclassicism in favor of the wild thrill of laic follies. Rococo works were heavily decorative, often designed to be 'read between the lines', and delighted in playfully alluding to 'indecent' desires of the flesh. The asymmetrical frills, sinuous trims and profligate garlands of Rococo design sought to corrupt the sobriety of religious influence by engaging viewers' senses through visual pleasure. It was during the rise of Rococo that 'Giardinetti' jewelry became particularly popular as wearable illustrations of this attraction to and beauty of the unrefined ways of nature. The jewel at hand is imbued with the very same sentiment, crafted as a device of adornment and display of wealth.

      This piece was originally either a stomacher component or a bodice ornament, both serving as formal embellishments of a lady's bodice. Stomachers are inverted triangular shaped accessory designed to span approximately from the breast to the navel so as to cover the undergarments and/or lacings that would otherwise be exposed. Stomachers have their roots in the Renaissance, and were fabric panels often enhanced with embroidery. During the 18th century, the wealthy had these panels extravagantly bedecked with gems, sewn directly onto the panels themselves. Eventually tastes shifted toward a preference for these gemmy additions to be removable, and therefore, versatile across different gowns, looks and occasions. As such, the term 'stomacher' took on fresh meaning with time, and evolved into a broochlike clip spanning the length of the bodice and made up of multiple hinged components that tapered to a flirtatious point. By the end of the Georgian period, these fell out of fashion, and were often disassembled and enjoyed as separate brooches, reimagined as pendants, or the like. Such is the case with this featured piece.

      Today, this jewel exists as a sizable brooch, though to the knowing eye, its scale, silhouette specificity of design are elegant winks to its former life as a portion of a bodice accessory. The central bezel opal and silver ray surround appear to have been added at some point in the piece's history. Should the opal be earth-mined, it is likely that this focalpoint was added sometime near the end of the 19th century, when the copious grandeur of the Belle Époque was en vogue. However, should the opal be grown, then it is likely that this centerpiece was added after the mid-1960s, when opals were first produced in labs. 

      A note about foiled diamonds: The diamond is closed back and appears to be foiled. Foiling was a clever trick of the trade in which slips of foil were carefully placed in the cupped setting beneath the semi-translucent gemstones of choice, achieving a stunning glimmer in low candlelight which reflected the fire flames in dazzling brilliance. The effect of foil backing is characteristic of Georgian and early to mid Victorian jewelry, as it created a hypnotic twinkle under historic candlelit lighting conditions, prior to the invention of electricity.

      One must keep in mind that the original owner for whom this cross was originally crafted did not occupy the kind of lifestyle or perform the same tasks we do today. This being the case, this foiled diamond relic was simply never intended or designed to withstand today's living. So, while this foiled jewelry is especially alluring attribute for collectors, they are quite vulnerable to water damage if even slightly wet. Water causes foil to discolor and darken, to somewhat dissolve, and it can get trapped between the stone and the setting. Thus, to prolong the life of secondhand jewelry, it should not be worn during physical activities and buyers should be mindful of condition notes and any presence of treatment-specific care.

      By placing an order, you accept and agree to uphold all of Revival Fine Jewelry's terms, conditions and policies.

      General Information: All additional jewelry boxes, ring boxes, and other jewelry items pictured alongside a featured listing are considered props, are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless otherwise noted. Items do not come with physical documentation, appraisals, or certifications, unless explicitly stated in the item description and/or title. While jewelry is inspected upon procurement by the shop as well as prior to shipment, Revival Fine Jewelry cannot guarantee a warranty once items leave our inventory, given the delicate and individual nature of secondhand articles and the unaccountability of buyer handling post-purchase.

      Shipping: All orders are carefully packed within a branded Revival Fine Jewelry gift box, secured with recycled materials when possible, and shipped within a discreet outer shipping parcel. All orders ship with tracking, insurance and signature confirmation. Shipping options are presented at checkout. Per law and inegrity, international orders are always marked as commodity imports and customers are responsible for any and all customs expenses, VAT taxes and import fees, as well as any clearance costs legally dictated by their respective destination countries. These expenses are not calculated into the pricing structure, and returns based on import costs will not be permitted.

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      Pricing: Revival Fine Jewelry reserves the right to decrease, increase, alter and modify inventory pricing to meet market rarity, demand or value; to offset platform, transaction or seller's fees; to adapt to economic inflation and fluctuation; and to defray specific business expenses. Pricing is the sole discretion of every small business.

      Regarding Brooches & Pins: Often significantly and curiously undervalued jewelry items, brooches, pins and stick pins are treasured pieces of history in this shop. Accordingly, their pricing is calculated analogous to other fine jewelry, including their symbolic meaning, rarity and historical prestige. Such pieces are typically converted to other forms of jewelry, and are therefore becoming increasingly rare in their original states. Aside from being perfectly wearable as sophisticated lapel ornaments, brooches and pins of all kinds are prime candidates for many kinds of fine jewelry conversions, including rings, earrings, pendants, and charms, if so desired by the consumer post-purchase. Revival Fine Jewelry does not perform conversion projects for customers.

      Regarding Storage & Boxes: All specifications, including but not limited to the measurements, age, origins, and material compositions are supplied in good faith as professional estimations constructed using professional grade tools, years of learned and honed skills, educational resources and academic scholarship, and refined research methods. Regardless of our confidence in our descriptions and the photographs deemed viable extensions of these descriptions, we cannot guarantee the definitiveness, faultlessness, or exactitude beyond our knowledge and expertise. Kindly keep in mind that this and all items are sold as-is vintage, antique and estate secondhand wares, and consequently bear conditional wear in matter and operation commensurate with age and use.

      More information on these, and more, topics may be found in the shop policies.

      All layaway terms may be found here, and all shop policies may be found here.

      Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.

      In exchange for offering interest-free plans, customers agree to abide and uphold the following nonnegotiable terms and conditions:

      • A 30% deposit is due upfront to reserve the item for layaway and pull it from public sale on all of our shopping platforms. Shipping expenses are added to this first payment unless otherwise requested.
      • The remaining 70% balance is divided up into three subsequent monthly payments due on the same day of the following three months. If delinquent, a $20.00 USD late fee is added per day to an overdue payment until paid.
      • In the event that a layaway installment is left unpaid for seven (7) days and no communication is received from the designated customer, the layaway plan will be presumed abandoned. While the item will be returned to public sale, all payments made hitherto are still considered final.

      Layaway items are promptly boxed and shipped to the designated customer once the final payment successfully processes. Taxes, import and other legal fees are not calculated into the payments, and are the sole responsibility of the customer, whether a domestic US or international buyer. Revival Fine Jewelry is not responsible for calculating, covering or adding such costs into purchase prices.

      All layaway payments as well as all items purchased through layaway plans are considered final sale; neither payments nor items may be refunded, transferred, exchanged or returned. Revival Fine Jewelry does not issue store credit.

      Revival Fine Jewelry reserves the right to cancel any layaway plan at any point for any reason if fraudulent activity is suspected. In this event, the designated customer will be notified prior to the intended cancellation of their plan.

      Request a layaway plan via email here. Remember to specify your desired item by providing its link, title or SKU/code.