1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck
1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck

PA157

1870s Austro Hungarian 45.34 CTW Persian Turquoise & Baroque Pearl 5-Piece Gilt Silver Parure in Fitted Box by Karl Tauböck

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General Information:

  • Combined Total Carat Weight:  45.34 ctw
  • Combined Precious Metal Weight:  3.4659 ozt
  • Combined Precious Metal Material:  800 silver with pure gold vermeil wash
  • Combined Weight:  Together, all jewelry weighs an incredible 107.8 grams. All the jewelry within the custom fitted box weighs an even more incredible 367.26 grams, which is roughly 0.81 lbs.
  • Markings:  The box tab closure on the bracelet is stamped with the maker's mark, a serif "KT" within a rectangular cartouche, indicating the very rare Viennese goldsmith and jeweler Karl Tauböck, whose company was active from 1867 to 1922.

    Additionally, the tab is stamped with the Austro-Hungarian 800 silver mark for smaller components, which is an irregularly-shaped hexagon cartouche with a right-facing dog's head flanked by a "3" on the left and a "P" on the right. The "3" and "P" together form the town code of identified control offices within the region specifically used between 1867 and 1872, "P3" being code for the Besztercebánya, Banská Bystrica, and Neusohl. Banská Bystrica is located in modern day Slovakia (132.57 miles northeast of Vienna, Austria and 85.94 miles north of Budapest, Hungary), and was a famous mining town from the 15th to the 19th century, abundant in gold, silver and copper deposits which were mined for all kinds of goods, including jewelry.

    The box tab closure of the lariat necklace is stamped with the same 3P/dog's head cartouche and KT maker's mark, but is also stamped with a serif letter "P" within a cut-corner cartouche, which is an assay office stamp for the city of Pest. Pest was one of the three cities-- Pest, Buda and Óbuda-- that were merged to form Budapest, Hungary on November 17, 1873.

    The screw back button earrings are stamped "800" to reflect the silver purity of the pieces, while the screw backs of the drop earrings are marked "1/20 12K GF", indicating the 12k yellow gold filled purity of the backs. These gold filled backs are believed to be later historic replacements dating to the 1920s-1930s. The brooch is unmarked, but its locking closure appears to also be a historic replacement dating to the 1920s-1930s.
  • Era:  The numerous hallmarks, the maker's mark, research into the maker's working history, and the socio-political and legal history of the Austrian and Hungarian regions tell us that this parure specifically dates to 1872, no later and no earlier.
  • Buyer Notes:  Prospective buyers please be aware that there exist ONLY 14 Austro-Hungarian parures are available on the open market at the time of listing; none feature turquoise, none are comprised of 5 pieces (ten parures are 2 or 3-piece sets and three parures are 4-piece sets), and only two other parures convey with fitted boxes. Most importantly, it is worth noting that historic parures are rare finds on their own, though it cannot be overstated just how insanely rare it is to find a complete parure of Austro-Hungarian jewels, especially a parure featuring precious and semi-precious gemstones rather than glass simulants. Most parures and demi-parures (of all kinds) do not survive the ages as they were very often divided up and passed on as separate family heirlooms. That these jewels HAVE survived as a large, complete parure with a fitted box makes them all the more valuable and desirable to collectors.

    At the time of listing, research uncovers NO other Karl Tauböck jewelry for sale on the open market worldwide, and the most recent sale of a Tauböck good was that of a vermeil and enamel 800 silver box with outer leather case, which sold at auction on September 10, 2005 for $11,000 CAD ($8431.12 USD). This same box set was previously featured and sold by Sotheby’s New York at auction (Lot 73) on December 8, 1992, within their “Faberge-Russian Works of Art and Objects of Vertu” catalog.

    All carat weights below were calculated by formula per the specific gravities of each respective gemstone, and using the measurements described which were assessed in-mount and as the mountings permitted. This exquisite parure is a direct reflection of the iconic merging of machinist fabrication and hand-fashioned craftsmanship, a display of the luxurious revival of Renaissance designs in mid/late Victorian era Viennese and Hungarian trends. This set is wholly one of a kind, greatly sought after relic of a bygone era.
  • Value Notes:  Research shows that this Victorian parure has a comparative market value of at least $6,450 without the additional value added by the inclusion of the fitted box. This is not a formal, written appraisal but may be helpful for prospective buyers while considering the purchase of this rarity.

Specifications:

1. BRACELET:
  • Total Carat Weight: 20.70 ctw
  • Precious Metal Weight 1.41 ozt
  • Dimensions:  This bracelet is 7.5 inches when fastened closed. It measures 16.8 mm to 27.9 mm wide, and the central panel rises about 12.1 mm.
  • Weight: 43.89 grams
  • Notes:  One side turquoise measuring about 1.8 mm has been lost to time towards the male end of the bracelet's box tab closure, as indicated in the photograph(s) provided. This may be very easily and economically rectified by the next caretaker's jeweler post-purchase, but has been left as-is by the shop to preserve the piece's historic integrity. Fortunately, the loss is very minor and is neither readily noticeable, nor detracts from the piece's wearability and beauty.
  • Center Stone Type: Turquoise
  • Center Stone Count: Eight (8)
  • Center Stone DimensionsThe central circular turquoise is 9.35 x 9.25 mm, and the ovular cabochons on the links are about 8.25 x 6.20 mm on average.
  • Center Stone Carat Weight: The central circular turquoise is 3.33 ct, and the ovular cabochons on the links are about 1.32 ct each/9.24 ctw. All 8 central turquoises total 12.57 ctw.
  • Center Stone Shape: 1x circular cabochon & 7x ovular cabochons
  • Side Stone Type: Turquoise
  • Side Stone Count: One hundred eighty-five (185)
  • Side Stone Dimensions1.80 to 4.50 mm on average
  • Side Stone Carat Weight: 5.72 ctw
  • Side Stone Shape: Circular cabochons
  • Side Stone Type: Semi-baroque seed pearl
  • Side Stone Count: One hundred ninety-nine (199)
  • Side Stone Dimensions1.2 mm on average
  • Side Stone Carat Weight: 0.01 ct each/1.99 ctw
  • Side Stone Shape: Semi-spherical beads
  • Side Stone Type: Button pearl
  • Side Stone Count: One (1)
  • Side Stone Dimensions4.60 mm
  • Side Stone Carat Weight: 0.42 ct
  • Side Stone Shape: Split/halved cabochon
2. LARIAT NECKLACE:
  • Total Carat Weight: 15.77 ctw
  • Precious Metal Weight: 1.26 ozt
  • Dimensions: This necklace is 20 inches, and the total length of the central drop pendant portion measures 84mm/3.307 inches with a depth/rise of about 10.8 mm. The links that makeup the necklace chain measure between 8.1 mm and 14.6 mm wide.
  • Weight: 39.17 grams
  • Center Stone Type: Turquoise
  • Center Stone Count: Four (4)
  • Center Stone DimensionsThe central ovular turquoise is 8.40 x 6.60 mm, the 3 other circular cabochons are about 5.45 x 5.50 mm on average, and the lowest-hanging ovular turquoise on the last drop is 6.70 x 4.60 mm.
  • Center Stone Carat Weight: The central ovular turquoise is 2.20 ct, the 3 other circular cabochons are about 0.76 ct each/2.28 ctw, and the lowest-hanging ovular turquoise on the last drop is 0.49 ct. All 4 central turquoises total 4.97 ctw.
  • Center Stone Shape: 2x ovular cabochon & 3x circular cabochons
  • Side Stone Type: Turquoise
  • Side Stone Count: One hundred fourteen (114)
  • Side Stone Dimensions: 1.80 to 3.75 mm on average
  • Side Stone Carat Weight: 7.45 ctw
  • Side Stone Shape: Circular cabochons
  • Side Stone Type: Semi-baroque seed pearl
  • Side Stone Count: One hundred five (105)
  • Side Stone Dimensions1.20 mm on average
  • Side Stone Carat Weight: 0.01 ct each/1.05 ctw
  • Side Stone Shape: Semi-spherical beads
  • Side Stone Type: Button pearl
  • Side Stone Count: Thirty (30)
  • Side Stone Dimensions1.75 to 4.50 mm on average
  • Side Stone Carat Weight: 2.30 ctw
  • Side Stone Shape: Split/halved cabochon
3. BROOCH:
  • Total Carat Weight: 5.35 ctw
  • Precious Metal Weight: 0.40 ozt
  • Dimensions: This brooch measures 39.5 mm long x 27.4 mm wide x 17.1 mm deep including the stem pin to the brooch's reverse.
  • Weight: 12.38 grams
  • Center Stone Type: Turquoise
  • Center Stone Count: One (1)
  • Center Stone Dimensions10.40 x 7.50 mm
  • Center Stone Carat Weight: 2.62 ct
  • Center Stone Shape: Ovular cabochon
  • Side Stone Type: Turquoise
  • Side Stone Count: Thirty-three (33)
  • Side Stone Dimensions1.80 to 4.80 mm on average
  • Side Stone Carat Weight: 1.90 ctw
  • Side Stone Shape: Circular cabochons
  • Side Stone Type: Semi-baroque seed pearl
  • Side Stone Count: Eighty-three (83)
  • Side Stone Dimensions1.20 mm on average
  • Side Stone Carat Weight: 0.01 ct each/0.83 ctw
  • Side Stone Shape: Semi-spherical beads
4. DROP EARRINGS:
  • Total Carat Weight: 2.60 ctw
  • Precious Metal Weight: 0.31 ozt
  • Dimensions: Each articulated drop earring measures about 47.00 mm overall top to bottom, 13.40 mm wide and about 7.00 mm deep back to front on the bottommost link with the central button pearl.
  • Weight: 9.61 grams together
  • Notes: These earrings may be worn on pierced and non-pierced earlobes alike, as they are fitted with comfortable 12k yellow gold filled (stamped) screw back closures.
  • Center Stone Type: Button Pearl
  • Center Stone Count: Two (2)
  • Center Stone Dimensions5.00 mm
  • Center Stone Carat Weight: 1.18 ctw
  • Center Stone Shape: Split/halved cabochon
  • Side Stone Type: Turquoise
  • Side Stone Count: Nineteen (19)
  • Side Stone Dimensions1.80 to 3.00 mm on average
  • Side Stone Carat Weight: 1.42 ctw
  • Side Stone Shape: Circular cabochons
5. BUTTON EARRINGS:
  • Total Carat Weight: 0.92 ctw
  • Precious Metal Weight: 0.09 ozt
  • Dimensions: Each button earring measures about 14.90 mm overall top to bottom, 12.20 wide and about 4.90 deep back to front excluding the screw back closures to the reverse.
  • Weight: 2.75 grams together
  • Notes: These earrings may be worn on pierced and non-pierced earlobes alike, as they are fitted with comfortable 800 silver (stamped) screw back closures.
  • Center Stone Type: Button Pearl
  • Center Stone Count: Two (2)
  • Center Stone Dimensions4.50 mm
  • Center Stone Carat Weight:  0.76 ctw
  • Center Stone Shape:  Split/halved cabochon
  • Side Stone Type: Turquoise
  • Side Stone Count: Eight (8)
  • Side Stone Dimensions1.80 on average
  • Side Stone Carat Weight: 0.16 ctw
  • Side Stone Shape: Circular cabochons

The Story:

A beautifully robust example of mid to late Victorian Renaissance Revival design, this Austro-Hungarian parure showcases the masterful craftsmanship for which Eastern European jewelers were well known and respected. This parure is a complete set, a scarce find on the market and the epitome of a collector’s item. A tangible window into Victorian fashions, this set is an artful expression that collapses time and connects the modern-day wearer with wearers past, and is a relic of a pivotal period in European history. Its unique combination of stamped hallmarks indicate the set’s precise history, and inform of its date of origin, its maker, and more:

This set was constructed by the hand of a premiere artisan exactly 150 years ago and dates to 1872. The jewelry pieces herein are each fabricated in 800 silver, the most common purity in the German and Eastern European region from the 19th to mid 20th centuries. Ornately enhancing the 800 silver, a wash of pure gold was originally applied in the vermeil technique. Though this giltwork has rubbed away in many areas after a century and a half of loving wear, there are certainly other areas in which the gold’s presence is still perceptible, and even more visible in certain lighting conditions. The effect produced by the gilt silver’s patina is an utterly romantic one; the tonal precious metal is moody and rich, made all the more dimensional by the kiss of time it proudly wears.

A key attribute of Austro-Hungarian made Renaissance Revival jewelry is the attention to detail and thoughtful elements decorating all sides of the jewelry surface. Every component of this parure is highly detailed, and even the reverse of each piece is as comprehensively designed as the obverse. For instance, upon close inspection, one can even make out what appear to be “greenman” faces adorning the cardinal points of backsides of the bracelet links. Likewise, the scrolling dimensionality of all such articulated components of this set reveal flowing cruciform, unfurling acanthus, feminine bow and interlocking garland imagery-- all amply punctuated with robin’s egg blue to kelly green Persian turquoise gemstones and lustrous white pearls. In true Victorian essence, each of these emblems conveyed a symbolic message: “greenman” faces have roots in pre-Christian beliefs and the adoration of the tree of life, cruciforms symbolized undeserved grace, acanthus leaves symbolized eternal life, bows symbolized spiritual and secular connectedness, and the interlocked garland symbolized prosperity and abundance.

This turquoise is believed to be a shining example of authentic antique Persian turquoise, which is more elusive than ever before and deeply prized. Middle eastern (Ancient Iran) Persian Turquoise was first imported into Europe through Turkey during the 17th century, though the gemstone’s namesake is thought to date to about 400 years prior: Turquoise was coined over time from the French term for Turkish stone, “pierre turque”. Eventually, as the gemstone was traded through Turkey, it developed the colloquial title of “turquois”, derived from the French word for “Turkish”. Though many articles are loosely described as Persian Turquoise, very few actually have roots in the Persian region. Because of this parure’s Austro-Hungarian make, it is certain that these stones are, indeed, Persian.

To understand the immense value of Persian turquoise during the 1800s, one must keep in mind that it commanded costs just below that of diamonds and emeralds, and was revered as a heavenly, symbolic stone. Turquoise is associated with protection and the sanctity of each day. It is often used to represent the forget-me-not flower, which itself, was exchanged between friends and lovers as a message of loyalty and remembrance. Harmoniously, pearls were seen as representative of affection and purity, and were significantly treasured alongside turquoise.

Very little is known about the presumed maker of this set, Karl Tauböck. Archival research shows that there was only one working-age adult male named Karl Tauböck recorded in the Viennese to Pest region during the mid-1800s. If this Karl Tauböck is the same Karl Tauböck as the maker of this piece, he was born either June or July 16, 1833 to Leopold Tauböck and Theresia Niggl in Vienna. At age 33 on February 12, 1866, he married Karolina Solpera, herself born on November 4, 1829. Together, they had at least two children, daughters Anna born February 6, 1868 and Friederica born May 12, 1871. Karl Tauböck was an active goldsmith and jeweler from about 1867, his business shuttering around 1922, at which point it was operated by his successor, as Tauböck himself passed in 1898. His wife survived him for another 16 years, passing away in September 1914. Both spouses were alive to see their daughters married, Anna to Jakob Strahser on October 26, 1889, and Friederica to Anton Weiss on July 15, 1895. Very little is known about the family line beyond the turn of the century.

In sum, this set is superb in its delightfully uncommon nature. It is a treasure to behold, a joy to wear, and a heirloom worth a thousand words and a thousand more memories. Paruresh are handsomely valued collector’s pieces, and their appearance on the open market is exceptionally infrequent.

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