Victorian 14K 0.42 CT Old European Cut Belcher Engagement Ring with Chased Fluted Shoulders

General Information:

• US Size: About a 7.25 though may fit up to a size 7.50 finger
• Total Carat Weight: 0.42 ct
• Total Precious Metal Weight: 2.21 dwt
• Precious Metal Material: 14k yellow gold
• Weight: A very nice 3.42 grams
• Markings: None, as is typical for this period; tests for 14k yellow gold.
• Era: circa 1860-1890
• Buyer Notes: This ring is an excellent example of Mid to Late Victorian design, with a romantic aesthetic through curvatures and chasing. Its shape makes it as ideal for stacking and pairing as it is as an engagement ring. The diamond present is a very chunky Old European Cut, with an extreme depth that makes this cut so iconic within the course of jewelry history. This stone also features a wide open culet (the ‘circle’ seen at its center when viewing from the top), which is an incredibly desirable characteristic of antique diamonds to those who collect these storied jewels.

Specifications:

• Center Stone Type: Diamond
• Center Stone Count: One (1)
• Center Stone Carat Weight: By formula/ratio for Old European Cuts (with ~38-53% table size), 0.42 ct
• Center Stone Dimension: Measured in mount to be 4.60 x 4.40 x ~3.20 mm
• Center Stone Shape: Old European Cut
• Center Stone Color Grade: H-I (appears slightly silvery due to carbon specks)
• Center Stone Clarity Grade: SI2-I1 (due to carbon specks)

The Story:

Crafted during the Mid to Late Victorian era, this diamond ring dates to the 19th century and exudes the romantic aesthetic of the time. In technical terms, this ring is formally described as a “Belcher” ring, named after the creator of the style mounting that it features: Thomas Belcher invented a mounting mechanism that was the first of its kind which was designed to ‘lift’ the featured gemstone (diamond) above the finger and somewhat above the metal band, therefore allowing light to pass through and refract in a way that closed back and flush-mounts simply cannot.

One can recognize Belcher rings by examining the area where the prongs meet the band’s shoulders. True Belchers are those in which the prongs are cut from the shank directly rather than externally affixed to the shank like modern rings. The result is a low profile effect, where the center stone appears to hover within the mount, showing just a peek of skin beneath and through the scalloped and scooped pattern of the setting. Various versions of this style were very popular between the 1860s and 1890s, and less frequently after the turn of the century. Colloquially, such rings are known as “Buttercup” rings because of the prongs’ resemblance to the opening of a buttercup bloom. Conversely, many Belchers are misidentified as “Gypsy” rings, but true Gypsy rings are those that have their gems embedded within and flush to the band, held by either very delicate flush bead prongs or with a flush rub-over setting.

The center stone is, nowadays, known as a “Salt & Pepper” diamond; salt & pepper diamonds bear visible carbon inclusions within and throughout, which are something like Mother Nature’s fingerprints left during the evolution of the stones. Such inclusions are organic and normal, and are found in diamonds that had not quite completed their creation process before being mined, cut and mounted-- such as this one. These velvety freckles give the diamond visual dimension, and seem to celestially float within the icy heft of the diamond.

The shoulders of this ring feature a lovely twisted design, creating the appearance of two bulbous branches wrapped affectionately around each other. One ‘branch’ is chased with cyma swirls and floral allusions, while the other ‘branch’ is left clean and plain with an ever so slight brushed finish. Together, these fluted shoulders form a scrolling marriage of polished curves to matte simplicity. The design concludes where the ring would be met by neighboring fingers, leaving the base of the shank plain and polished. This ring was originally designed as an engagement ring, though its silhouette enables it to be easily stacked or paired with any other bands. Its low profile keeps it practical for everyday wear and ensures a timeless air, even well after a century and a half of life.

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Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.

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• A 30% deposit is due upfront to reserve the item for layaway and pull it from public sale on all of our shopping platforms. Shipping expenses are added to this first payment unless otherwise requested.
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