General Information:
- Total Stone Weight: Professionally estimated by formula to be approximately 0.24 ctw (please see the breakdown below)
- Total Precious Metal Weight: Estimated 2.10 dwt
- Precious Metal Material: 14k buttery yellow gold with hand painted enameling throughout
- Weight: A wonderful 3.25 grams, which is an exceedingly rare heft for a stick pin
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Dimensions: Overall, the pin is mm long. The head measures 16.13 mm north to south x 15.55 mm east to west x 8.10 mm deep.
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Markings: The reverse of the pinhead is stamped with a contiguous WAB 14 and bears a hand-etched inscription that reads 011950, which is likely a serial number. The highly desirable WAB maker’s mark indicates the famed jewelers Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss and the pin’s fabrication in 14k yellow gold. According to archival records, WAB got its start in 1909, grew to be known as Allsopp-Bliss Company and then formally established as Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss by 1915. WAB rose to fame for their intricate and top quality designs, and was a primary jewelry manufacturer for Tiffany & Co., amongst other famed retailers. By 1956, WAB’s assets were sold to Krementz & Co. Stamped WAB jewelry items, especially earlier pieces, are of utmost collectibility and desirability amongst museums, enthusiasts as well as seasoned and beginner collectors alike.
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Era: The maker’s mark and the attributed company’s history tell us that this piece dates to 1915 at the earliest and 1956 at the latest. The pin’s stylistic artistry and construction techniques place it between 1915-1930, and its use of an Old European cut diamond (versus a Transitional cut or Round Brilliant cut) limit its most likely origin to prior to 1925. Given these clues, this stick pin is believed to date to between 1915 and 1920, and exists as a fine example of late Edwardian, early Art Deco jewelry, showing elements of pre-WWI Art Nouveau whimsy as well as post-WWI Art Deco strength. Beyond what our years of collecting, dealing, learning and refining our expertise enable us to determine, we cannot ascertain a more precise date range or history than this without knowledge of the piece’s exact provenance.
- Buyer Notes: Please note that there is very slight nibbling/abrasions to stones under magnification; one eye exhibits one chip that almost appears like a concave pupil detail. Such wear is to be expected of antique jewelry after over a century of loving use, and is not readily apparent to the eye, especially when worn, but is worth noting nonetheless. This pin does not come with a clutch closure. The enameling is in exquisite condition, and is certainly one of the best attributes of this jewel. With no other pins quite like it, this piece stands out as a treasure to behold.
Specifications:
- Center Stone Type: Diamond
- Center Stone Count: One (1)
- Center Stone Dimensions: 2.0 x 2.5 mm (Measured within setting so as to preserve the piece’s integrity)
- Center Stone Carat Weight: 0.10 ct (Professionally estimated by formula per the specific gravity of diamond)
- Center Stone Shape: Old European Cut
- Center Stone Color: G
- Center Stone Clarity: VS2-SI1
- Side Stone Type: Ruby
- Side Stone Count: Two (2)
- Side Stone Dimensions: ~2.0 mm (measured within setting so as to preserve the piece’s integrity)
- Side Stone Carat Weight: 0.07 ct ea; 0.14 ctw together (professionally estimated by formula per the specific gravity of ruby)
- Side Stone Shape: Round Cabochon Cut
- Side Stone Color: Vivid pinkish-red
- Side Stone Clarity: Translucent
The Story:
An astounding masterpiece of late Edwardian to early Art Deco design, this figural stick pin is an extremely weighty jewel and features a sculptural gem-set tiger. This piece is unlike any other lion or tiger themed accessory from this period that this shop has ever had the privilege of handling, as it exhibits a level of vigorous artistic mastery that most animal jewels simply do not possess. The pinhead is that of a tigress that appears to have been cast from a mold, which would have originally been created after an original hand carving of the animal. The gold’s articulation remains crisp and detailed, every hair on its coat pronounced in stunning precision. Undeniably, the tigress’ detailing is arguably even more fascinating under magnification than it is to the unaided eye.
Bringing the creature to life are its glowing ruby cabochon eyes and skillful hand painted enameling throughout. The gems appear a raspberry red and are carefully inset within the gold, and seem to glimmer in both low and bright lights. Equally captivating, the hand painted fur coat indicates the animal’s identity and provides visual texture and contrast. This enameling is truly admirable, with a mix of applications and executions: the base body color of the fur is a rusty orange-brown with a finessed application that appears to possibly have been airbrushed, a technique first patented between 1876 and 1879; the top layers of black stripes are brush-painted in steady wisps and careful feathering. Notably, the snout features silvery-gray and blue chroma with painted whiskers beneath a blackish outer nose with reddish-bronze nostrils. The contrast in application systems and the sophistication of color is captivating, and visually deepens the tactility of the tiger’s image.
This tiger is dynamically captured mid-snarl, a perfectly chunky Old European cut diamond within the fierce grip of its teeth. The stone is very lively, with a central culet and broad faceting, both characteristics of hand-finished OEC faceting patterns. As significant as the stick pin’s artistry is the jewelry house who crafted it: this piece bears the desirable maker’s mark of Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss. The earliest iteration of Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss was first mentioned in the Jeweler’s Circular publication in 1909, before becoming Allsopp-Bliss Company and then becoming formally established by 1915. The company produced jewelry for Tiffany & Co. for many decades, and by 1956, its assets were sold to Krementz & Co. Indeed, Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss were exceedingly talented makers who hold a pedestaled place within the storied past of jewelry history. The company’s reach and prolificity into the luxury market of the 20th century inherently imbues its surviving early jewelry with increased value and, of course, collectibility.
This piece presents as bold and powerful as the tiger’s roar, and bears virtually no exact comparables on the open market at the time of procurement, research and listing. As such, this pin stands as a singular, extraordinarily well made heirloom jewel without equal.
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General Information: All additional jewelry boxes, ring boxes, and other jewelry items pictured alongside a featured listing are considered props, are for photographic and display purposes only and are not included in the transaction unless otherwise noted. Items do not come with physical documentation, appraisals, or certifications, unless explicitly stated in the item description and/or title. While jewelry is inspected upon procurement by the shop as well as prior to shipment, Revival Fine Jewelry cannot guarantee a warranty once items leave our inventory, given the delicate and individual nature of secondhand articles and the unaccountability of buyer handling post-purchase.
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Regarding Brooches & Pins: Often significantly and curiously undervalued jewelry items, brooches, pins and stick pins are treasured pieces of history in this shop. Accordingly, their pricing is calculated analogous to other fine jewelry, including their symbolic meaning, rarity and historical prestige. Such pieces are typically converted to other forms of jewelry, and are therefore becoming increasingly rare in their original states. Aside from being perfectly wearable as sophisticated lapel ornaments, brooches and pins of all kinds are prime candidates for many kinds of fine jewelry conversions, including rings, earrings, pendants, and charms, if so desired by the consumer post-purchase. Revival Fine Jewelry does not perform conversion projects for customers.
Regarding Storage & Boxes: All specifications, including but not limited to the measurements, age, origins, and material compositions are supplied in good faith as professional estimations constructed using professional grade tools, years of learned and honed skills, educational resources and academic scholarship, and refined research methods. Regardless of our confidence in our descriptions and the photographs deemed viable extensions of these descriptions, we cannot guarantee the definitiveness, faultlessness, or exactitude beyond our knowledge and expertise. Kindly keep in mind that this and all items are sold as-is vintage, antique and estate secondhand wares, and consequently bear conditional wear in matter and operation commensurate with age and use.
More information on these, and more, topics may be found in the shop policies.
All layaway terms may be found here, and all shop policies may be found here.
Layaway is available for full priced, non-sale items priced $600.00 USD or greater, and items may not be combined to attain price-eligibility. Plans are offered as 3-month/90-day maximum terms.
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- In the event that a layaway installment is left unpaid for seven (7) days and no communication is received from the designated customer, the layaway plan will be presumed abandoned. While the item will be returned to public sale, all payments made hitherto are still considered final.
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Request a layaway plan via email here. Remember to specify your desired item by providing its link, title or SKU/code.