Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount
Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount

EN230

Art Deco 18k 0.33 CTW Diamond and Ruby Engagement Ring in Etched Floral Filigree Hexagonal Mount

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  • Unique find! Only 1 available.

  • Shopping pre-owned is choosing sustainable luxury
  • One-of-a-kind item exclusively curated for you
  • Ships with full insurance + signature confirmation

General Information:

  • US Size: 6.50
  • Total Carat Weight: 0.33 ctw
  • Precious Metal Weight: 1.70 dwt
  • Precious Metal Material: 18k White Gold
  • Dimensions: 10.5 mm ring face north to south, ~5.6 mm rise from the finger, shank tapers to a delicate 1.1 mm width. 
  • Weight: 2.6 grams
  • Markings: 18K (indiscernible partial maker’s mark polished off from wear)
  • Era: circa 1920-1935, Art Deco
  • Buyer Notes: One ruby shows a flea bite to one corner. All stones are secure and have recently been re-tipped by our jeweler, making it ready for immediate wear. The price has been fairly set to reflect the expected wear evidenced on the ring, which is commensurate with the ring’s age and nearly 100 years of affection.

Specifications:

  • Center Stone Type: Natural Diamond
  • Center Stone Count: One (1)
  • Center Stone Carat Weight: Approx. 0.17 ct
  • Center Stone Dimension: 3.5 x 3.5 mm
  • Center Stone Shape: Circular Brilliant (Transitional) Cut
  • Center Stone Color Grade:
  • Center Stone Clarity Grade: VS2
  • Side Stone Type: Antique Synthetic Ruby
  • Side Stone Count: Two (2)
  • Side Stone Carat Weight: Approx. 0.16 ctw; 0.08 ct ea.
  • Side Stone Dimensions: 2.5 x 3.0 mm ea.
  • Side Stone Shapes: Antique Triangular Faceted Cut

The Story:

A stunning example of Deco design, this engagement ring features a dainty Circular Brilliant Cut diamond, which is the GIA classification for the Transitional Cut, which debuted for just a short period of time, primarily between the 1930s and the 1950s. Flanking this central diamond are two triangular faceted synthetic ruby gems, and this trio of stones are set in a pierced floral filigree mount, with etching extending around three quarters of the tapered shank. Between the diamond faceting, the gemstone type, and the white gold mount, this ring was considered the cutting edge of fashion when it was originally crafted, with a central diamond of the latest faceting, and rubies that were developed through avant-garde scientific means:

Transitional Cut faceting was exactly that-- a transition between the old style of faceting called Old European Cut, and the newer style of faceting called Round Brilliant Cut. Transitionals were only created during a very brief time, and are comparatively a scarce find. Their faceting is identified by lengthy girdle facets, a cutting change which partially grew out of the invention and incorporation of electric incandescent lighting, which forever altered the way that the fiery nature of diamonds was perceived indoors. The cutting preference evidenced a belief that the longer the lower girdle facets, the richer the light play under this new light form, as well asunder natural sunlight too. Today, Transitional Cuts have characteristically large facets, displaying something like a daisy pattern within the stone. This daisy effect is beautifully evidenced in the photos provided!

Synthetic rubies (lab-made) were first produced by French scientist and scholar Auguste Victor Louis Verneuil (1856-1913) sometime between 1886-1892, though he first publicly shared his discovery around 1902. As such, the use of synthetic rubies within very high end jewelry grew popular after the turn of the century, with its height of use being the Deco years between the 1920s and the 1930s. Interestingly, synthetic corundum-- which includes rubies and sapphires-- are chemically and physically identical to their nature-made counterparts. This means that synthetics exhibited cleaner, brighter color produced under ideal lab conditions, while retaining the same durable chemical and physical properties as natural gems. Best yet, synthetics were much more economical options as opposed to natural gems, and their implementation into fine jewels was very common.

The filigree mounting displays the intricate mix of hard geometries with soft organicism, all crafted in white gold. White gold is known to have been used all the way back into the late 19th century, though it was first patented in the US around 1921, at which point its demand skyrocketed. Most jewelry during these years was produced in the latest modern marvel of white gold, and this engagement ring is certainly no exception. Its filigree is in the form of three petaled flowers, their stems and robust foliage. Delicate incised linework brings these blooms to life, and adds interest to the ring’s profiles. One side of the filigree shows expected wear, where it likely rubbed against the original wearer’s finger over the course of her lifetime. Even so, this wear is not noticeable when facing a fitted wedding band. The shoulders of the ring show an etched wheat pattern, which is mirrored on the other outer, top and bottom faces of the shank. 

The Victorian tradition of intentional symbolism woven into jewelry hung on well into the Art Deco years. Accordingly, this ring embraces a hidden love note in its forms and materials: the diamond symbolizes purity and transcendence, and is believed to aid in clearing emotional distress and usher in fresh beginnings ripe for success. Diamonds are also thought to forge strength and fill emptiness with the richest love, while also solidifying authenticity of relationships. With these beliefs in mind, it is no wonder the jewel is so commonly preferred for engagement rings. Rubies represent the passion of love, the nobility of serving the one you love, and the healing of old wounds. Furthermore, the use of blossoms alludes to the persistence of growth and the assurance of new life. In sum, this ring is a stunning story of marital promise in wearable, historic form.

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